The during our trip from Cordoba to Granada a side of Spain unfolded that we had not seen before. Plains, hills and mountains almost completely covered with olive groves provide the background for white hilltop towns with their fortresses and churches. Just beautiful !
Washington Irving, in his novel "The Tales of the Alhambra", which he wrote in the early 19th century in a room at the Alhambra, stated that people often assume that Italy and Spain are the same. But, where Italy is soft and frivolous, Spain is a rugged, lonely landscape, which forms its people accordingly. Well, that thought still holds true.
As one approaches Granada it looks like a fairytale city at the foot of the snow-covered (even at a sweltering 41 degrees) Sierra Nevada mountains, with the huge Alhambra on top of a huge outcrop, drawing in your view.
The Alhambra , the main reason for the mass tourism to Granada, is a huge complex consisting of a fortress, about 7 palaces and huge gardens, the earliest palaces dating back to the 11th century under Moorish rule. Granada was the last city to be reconquered from Moorish rule in the mid 15 th century and the Moorish influence can still be seen throughout. The Alhambra is compared by many to the Taj Mahal and some say it is the most magnificent piece of architecture and the most romantic environment in the world today. Well, I think we counted about 10 wedding parties having their photo session during our visit !
For me, the Alhambra is overwhelming. The feat to build the huge fortress and places on top of this mountain is awe-inspiring in itself, especially at the time. The magnitude of the area and the diversity of architecture and styles is incredible. What makes it overwhelming for me though, is the intricate decorative detail of the moorish palaces, the incredible use of space, light and especially water inside and outside of the palaces ...and then the extensive and beautifully sculptured and romantic gardens with their many nooks and crannies. Beautiful flowers everywhere, shaded seating with magnificent vistas and the sights and sounds of water in every direction, and this on top of a mountain. The later Spanish baroque palace seems totally out of place and brash in these surroundings. It seems as if the difference between the Moorish eastern building style and the western civilisation approach, is that the former is in tune with nature and wishes to use nature and the surroundings to enhance a very balances architecture, whereas the latter uses architecture to overpower, conquer and subjugate nature. It is amazing that so much of the architecture has been able to be retained and restored, giving us a glimpse into life in a very different time. And then...the views...endless, down over the town, the plains, the far away mountains and the overshadowing Sierra Nevada mountains with their snow. One can easily imagine how the Moors managed to withstand a siege of more than 7 month on this mountain top, before negotiating their withdrawal and handing over the keys to the city to the Catholic Kings.
We wandered around the narrow alleys of the Moorish and the Jewish areas, marvelling at the dwellings, the graffiti and the cars that manage to manoeuvre through the narrowest of streets, with millimeters to spare (literally!). Although there is an overpowering cathedral and beautiful churches and basilicas, we focused on the many beautiful plazas and streets - enjoying the sunshine and the heat.
Just another thought on the churches, which has been overwhelming, since Clint's visit to the museum of the Inquisition. It is incomprehensible to us, that the same people who depict and profess love, charity, forgiveness in and through the decoration of their churches, were the same people who inflicted unimaginable cruelty, torment and hardship on so many of their countrymen and women ( institutionally over a period of more than 400 years) - just for not sharing their beliefs. It makes us look at the churches and their beauty quite differently and at the same time makes us reflect, that it seems to be a warning signal, when a religion feels that it has to protect itself by force and violence. And so many years on ...it feels as if humanity does not progress in certain ways, just repeats the same insanity ! The dressing may change, the essence remains the same.
On a brighter note ...as you always manage to see what you are looking for ... I was again reminded of the quote from my first blog of our travels :"In the 18th century young english men (and only young men) were sent on the Grand Tour to southern Europe (to learn how to dress, eat and be better lovers !) - the precursor to the 21st century Gap Year concept - on the assumption that beauty must be sought out,seen, consumed and if possible brought home. Beauty is life-enhancing. (Stephen Bailey)". After the intensity of Seville, Cordoba and Granada...we feel enhanced to have seen so much man- made beauty and the beauty reallynis overwhelming, with the Alhambra being its crowning glory (for me ...that is ...Clint is not quite convinced !).

In Granada we managed to find a room in the No1 rated guesthouse - as per Tripadvisor. It is a rating it well deserves ! Being at the bottom end in term of cost, it it at the top end in terms of location, furnishings and service, although it has no views. Those however you get around every corner, once you start wandering the streets. So, another jackpot and this time MUCH quieter (which meant Clint did not have to use the ear-plugs he bought on leaving Cordoba).