On first arriving in Cordoba and walking through the little alleys of the Juderia (Jewish Quarters), it had the feel of Toledo. With our luggage it proved to be a bit of a challenge, as the alleys are too narrow for a car to pass our suitcase ...unless we are able to duck into a doorway. All very funny ! Cordoba seems more authentic than Toledo, and boasts an equally old history. It is beautifully maintained and has so many romantic nooks and crannies. Just magical and a photographers dream. The history here is diverse and an interesting mixture of Muslim, Jewish and Christian architecture and traditions. This leads to many interesting vistas and especially debates.
The Mezquita is the historic centre of the town ...with the original jewish and moorish areas adjoining it on either side. Both areas consist of little alleyways with small 2 - 3 storey homes ...with terraces on the roofs and beautiful patios in the middle. The building style seems to assist in keeping the houses cool in the summer. Our traditionally built hotel and its patios were remarkbly cool inspite 39degrees at 13h30 and climbing ! This is also one of the few cities in Spain where the original Synagogue has remained intact.
The Mezquita is the biggest Mosque in the world and was built and extended during the Moorish occupation of Spain from the 8th to the beginning of the 13th century , with the Christian reconquest of Spain. A small church was built into the corner of the mosque at the time of the reconquest, but with the arrival of a new bishop in the mid 16th century, the mighty cathedral which can be seen today was built into the middle of the mosque, although is was opposed by the local people and the mayor of the town of the time, as they understood the value of the timeless and unique architecture of the mosque. The Cathedral was built over a period of about 250 years and boast gothic, renaissance, baroque and rococco architecture.
There are two main streams of thought. One is that it is really unfortunate that the unique architectural feature of the biggest mosque in the world was destroyed by the building of the cathedral, which removed several hundreds of arches to make way for the cathedral. The second is, that we are fortunate to have the remaining over 850 arches and mosques so well maintained, which is mainly due to the presence of the cathedral. The chances of the mosque being maintained during centuries of christian rule in the area are very slim. It is very interesting to wander through this beautiful building, knowing that it is of great religious, historical and cultural value to both the Christians and the Muslims.
Another interesting and contoversial exhibition is housed in the medieval tower, which protected the Roman bridge, on the other side of the river. The museum in this tower consists of exhibits that are explained through stories and poetry, mainly from philosophers and rulers of the time. The message is that the 3 religions of Cordoba could live in harmony, as they are all religons of love striving for the same ends and not that different, but that they are made different through the complicity of religious leaders with the political leaders, which in the end means that the practised religion and doctrine has very little similarity with the original beliefs. Very interesting thoughts expressed ! What makes it controversial is, that the foundation that is responsible for the museum and its contents was started by a French Communist Party leader, who, when dismissed from the Communist party, converted to Catholisism and then to Islam. He is also a Holocaust denier, which puts question marks against the information put forward in the museum. For us, it was extremely thought-provoking and led to interesting debate. And that is what it is all about ...and what travel is all about...to open the mind to alternative ways of thinking and questioning what one has been made to accept as truths ! Again one is reminded that history is documented by the conqueror...it makes one wonder more and more what truth really is.
Late last night ...at about 11h45 we went for a walk down to the river and met a huge group of inline skaters having fun on the bridge and the marble tiles of a huge monument. So amazing to see that the areas can and are so well used without the many restrictions one is used to.
There was also a seat of the Inquisiton here in Cordoba and a gruesome museum exists here, which Clint visited (I certainly dont have the stomach for that !), which shows in graphic depictions and actual implements, how the accused were tortured and killed. In the end it again comes down to property...if you were accused then all your property was taken away and given to the accuser or to the church...what a very convenient re-distribution of wealth.