We had planned to take shuttle bus across the border to Rio Hondo and from there, a three or four hour chicken bus ride to Rio Dulce. The day before we are due to depart, Brendie at our hotel tells us that the shuttle company has been in touch to say that they can take us all the way to Rio Dulce if we choose. . We had considered this but it was very costly for just two of us. However, they now have a couple of other passengers so the price has halved and we are happy to take this much easier option. Six hours after our 6am departure we arrive in Rio Dulce.

The town is named after the river which flows past it (translates to Sweet River)and is reached by crossing the long single span bridge built in 1999. Prior to that, a barge ferried all traffic across. Rio Dulce is a chaotic place, markets and haphazard shops line the streets which are choked with lorries, moto taxis and pedestrians. We are glad that we have opted to take a room for two nights in the peaceful Kangaroo Lodge hotel, a 5 minute boat trip up river. Down at the jetty, one of the boatmen calls the hotel who send a boat across for us. We know we have made the right choice when we are greeted at the hotel's private jetty by Bear a large aptly named labrador who we are convinced, despite his owners pedigree assurances, that there is some Newfoundland in his heritage.

Kangaroo lodge is built on stilts in the jungle swamp. Our private cabin is reached by a boardwalk, slippy with the earlier rain and no hand rails. Turtles and small fish splash around the water beneath the boards. Gary the laid back Aussie owner doesn't bother much with officialdom and there is no need for passports or signing in. Jan his German assistant speaks perfect English with a Scottish accent having studied sports science for a few years at Abertay University. Next day we take one of the hotels kayaks across Lago Isabel and explore the old Spanish fort.. yet another one built to protect against assault by Carribean pirates. The restored fort complex is well worth a visit as are the spacious grounds set out with trees gardens and a restaurant.

Back at the hotel we enjoyed the company of an English couple, John and Caroline, ageing backpackers like us. They told us the horror story of John's pocket being picked at Chichinastanengo market a few days before. We had planned to go there when we were at Lake Atitlan and are so glad we'd decided against it.