I woke up after 5am and was cross with Edd: he'd come back from going to the toilet without me and I also needed to go. How he'd managed to leave the room without waking me, I had no idea. I turned to him and expressed my dismay. He replied saying that he had not been to the bathroom yet, I had dreamt it. Oops. We got up and went to loo together - it was a bit of a trek and I did not like doing it alone at night/early morning.

We woke up again after 9am, got up and started packing our things. We then went down stairs to pay our bill, having a figure in our heads after asking the night barman the night before. The new figure was significantly higher than we'd expected and Edd proceeded to work through it to figure out why it had increased by so much. As it turned out, someone had written a pineapple juice and an extra coffee onto our bill from the day before and they were charging us for the evening, even though we were busy checking out. This was quickly rectified and Edd went in search of an ATM to draw some money to pay.

He came back ages later and we paid our tab, leaving our backpacks in the corner of the restaurant/bar area, next to the pool table. We then made our way to the sun loungers and resumed positions for the last time.

We were hassled by the usual crowd of locals, selling their services of massages, mani's, pedi's, trips to the island, bracelets, hair wraps and sunglasses. We were not going to miss them. I got a back massage for the last time and wanted an hour this time, the last massage was way too short. It turned out that the massage people on the beach of Cambodia could not tell the time; it was over in 40 minutes. I could not be bothered with arguing, it was at least longer than the previous ones, which must have been 20 minutes. Liars, the lot of them.

We stayed out of the sun all day and then sat in the restaurant area from about 3pm, to charge all our bits and pieces. We wanted to eat at our bungalow, but they were serving food. Surprise surprise. We went for a shower (I told Edd where I was going this time) and then packed up our freshly charged stuff and bathroom bits. We put our bags in one of the other guests rooms (we'd made friends with them and they obliged).

Edd had seen a restaurant, when he was on his way to drawing money earlier in the day, that advertised 'the best burgers in town' so we went to test their theory.

We asked how long it would take to make our burgers and were assured it would be about 15 minutes. 40 minutes later, our burgers arrived.. We had to eat them in record time as our took took was picking us up at 7pm from the Sea Garden. The barman gave us a bottle of water in compensation (he'd originally offered us beers, but we both declined as the hotel bus did not have on board toilets and we did not want to be stopping them every 5 minutes to go to the loo). We accepted his kind gesture and then ran back to Sea Garden in record time: our took took was there waiting for us. We grabbed our bags, said goodbye to everyone and left.

It was the first time we'd ventured into the city of Sihonikville. We'd heard many stories about the corrupt police officials stopping you because you had weed on you. One of the westerners who lives there, got strip searched (illegally) in a hut. The cop wanted to extort him for kick backs and he refused: take me to the police station. Naked. He had apparently sat there for 2 hours, refusing to put his clothes back on. He also refused to pay the cop $5, or anything for that matter and insisted on being taken to the station. Apparently there was a new police commissioner who was making life very difficult for the corrupt officials and the locals. Everyone knew who was stealing, pick pocketing and extorting the westerners and he was clamping down on the corruption. Illegal activity did not take place inside the police station, which is why the officer did not want to take him there: he was being arrested for not having a Cambodian drivers license (apparently an international one didn't count, even if it said so on the forms) and the fine was $1. He wanted the $5 for his back pocket, but this westerner knew better and made the officer sweat instead. If he'd been caught, he'd have been in some serious trouble, not that it ever stopped them though. Sounds like Africa, minus the uncorrupted head.

We were dropped off at the bus station and chatted to a European couple about their trip while we waited for our bus. The hotel bus then arrived and we jumped on. It had been advertised as a private room - double bed, with wifi, a TV and a toilet (to some people, we were told a TV but no toilet) it was in fact a single bed, for 2 people with a curtain, no wifi, no TV and no toilet. If you booked on your own, you got to cozy up to some random on a single bed for the night. Edd and I slept head to toe initially, but the bus driver and his crew of useless attendants were talking so loudly, that he ended up turning around. I was also concerned I'd get a foot in the face and a knee in the belly.

We stopped so many times it was no wonder the journey took 12 hours. The bus driver hit a pot hole at one point (cos they were too busy cackling away like chickens) and we all heard something burst. We drove for a little while, so thought it may have just been the sound of the bus hitting a hole, but then it stopped. The next thing we felt was the bus being jacked up and tyres being removed. I hopped out to go to the loo (bush squat, classy) and Edd took a few pictures of them changing the tyre. I have never seen a balder tyre before in my life; it was running on pure mesh, no wonder it had completely ripped open! The position thing about a buses tyres is that they are doubled up, but that's about the only positive in this situation.

The bus stopped again to change the useless spare tyre for a new one and then it stopped again to pick up something that smelled like urine. It turned out to be massive boxes of fish that they'd stored in the bottom of the bus - our bags were going to reek in the morning. On one of the stops, Edd and I got out to go to the loo again, but this time without shoes (something about not being able to go to the toilet when ever you need to, makes you need to go more). I managed to get tangled up in the middle of a thorn runner on the ground and kept standing on the devils with every step I took. My feet were burning when we got back into the bus and I applied some after bite to sooth my stupidity. One things for certain, this was an eventful trip.