After a dream train ride from Lahore to Islamabad (3 pounds for air con compartment - The gauntlet has been thrown down National Express!) the inverse dream 16 hour bus journey from hell appeared. Nay sleep, a bus that once had a cleaner but who obviously passed way no less than 15 years ago and didn't have the good grace to inform the management, and a soothing 800 decibel reciting of the Quran for most of the way. Finally though we arrived in Gilgit - the ...

After a train ride, a hold on to your seats taxi ride, a 1km walk through no mans land in 40 degrees and a welcome to Pakistan that involved Phil and I emptying and repacking the contents of our bags under the view of the customs boy we have reached Lahore. First impressions are of another big city similar to Delhi but maybe slightly more orderly? Hot as hell and we're looking to hit the mountains tomorrow..... Also made the planned rendez vous with Rich - t...