Cordoba is an old city in the south of Spain that is home to one principal attraction: the cathedral mosque. This is a perfect representation of the cultural shift in the south of Spain in the 15th century.

The south of Spain was originally controlled by the Moors, Muslim arabs from North Africa (711-1492). The Spanish kings began what was called La Reconquista in the 15th century, taking land back from the Moors. This was also the beginning of the time of Torquemada and the Spanish Inquisition to rid the country of impure religion such as Islam and Judaism. Nobody expected the Spanish Inquisition, whose chief weapons were fear, surprise, and an almost fanatical devotion to the pope.

All that to say, in the 15th century Moorish rulers were driven out and replaced by fanatical Christianity. What to do then with the symbols of Islam left behind? Replace them with Christian symbols. The Cathedral Mosque of Cordoba is a perfect example. What the Christians did was build a huge cathedral inside the mosque.

The mosque was essentially a huge square complex, supported by pillars and archways built in the Moorish style. Imagine then grafting a huge gothic cathedral in the middle of the mosque. In the traditional cross design of catholic cathedrals, moorish arches were replaced with huge vaulted gothic ceilings. An altar and a choir were installed, along with chapels along the outside. Of course, the christian altars and accoutrements had to outshine the Muslim architecture in every way. Architecturally and stylistically, it was amazing.

I was struck by the level of devotion and faith that would be required to undertake this or the other cathedrals we saw this trip. The Seville cathedral, for example, took 104 years to build. No one who dug the foundation would even have a grandson who would live to see it completed. And the scale of these cathedrals was so immense: the depth of faith to undertake such a construction must have been immense. They accomplish their purpose, though: even 300 years later, they still inspire awe in everyone that visits them.

Big milestone today. I ordered lunch, coffee, ice cream, and dinner without using a single word in English. So to the receptionist at our first hotel I say besame el culo, porque yo hablo espanol muy bien.

Ha!