My Celta training course is over and I finally get to leave Budapest after five weeks. This is my third time in Budapest and I've noticed quite a few changes over my three visits

I first did an overnight trip in 2004, just after Hungary joined the EU in 2003 (nicknamed the big bang when most of the Eastern bloc joined). I loved the city so came back for 2 1/2 days in 2007. For a long time I'd wanted to come back and do some exploring of other towns but working in Korea for the last three years trips to Europe weren't possible. Finally I was able to come this months and stay for five weeks since my training course lasted four weeks so I came early to do some exploring.

Some of the main observations I have seen over the last ten years

1. The city has really cleaned itself up and become more presentable. The first two times I came buildings were covered in soot and years of dirt. I could see the architectural beauty and hoped they would take the time to restore and clean the buildings so the city can showcase its true beauty. I've seen a big change from my two visits in 2004 & 2007. All the dirt has been cleaned and buildings are in immaculate condition.

2. English levels have drastically jumped. In 2004 German seemed to be the second language in use most places, followed by Russian, then English. English has now moved to the second spot and is much widely spoken than before even when I went to other towns and train stations can all spoke some English now.

3. Move to a debit economy. The last two times everything was cash only and you couldn't use credit cards anywhere. It felt like the 1980s. Now debit and credit are more widely used, even in subway stations

4. Budapest is a city for the young. In 2004 it felt like the country was run by grandmothers. Everyone of working age from 20-40 had fled the country and gone to the west. You only saw school age children and pensioners (the same is true for all the eastern bloc during that trip in 2004). Now it seems the city has reinvented itself. Its a viable place for young people to live and work. The city has found an new energy and vibrancy

5. Buildings have been modernized. In 2004 it felt like England in the 1970s particularly with indoor plumbing and bathrooms. In 2007 there were many bathtubs and half the kitchen out on the street as buildings were undergoing renovations. Now there are many new apartments and older buildings have been retrofitted.

6. Tourists have discovered Budapest. The last two times I didn't see that many. Prague was the popular destination but over time Budapest has been able to manage to push its way thru and is bringing in tourists in part due to the extensive building restoration work they have undertaken.

7. The city is very bike friendly. Part of the rejuvenation, attracting, and retaining young people is the city's bike network.

8. The city is in love with shopping malls and kebabs. These were not visible the last two trips. Now there are maybe more kebab shops than bus stops!

9. City is becoming multi ethnic. Aside from western Europeans that are choosing to live here there are also Chinese and some Africans. Chinese cuisine has also become popular but not to the extent of kebab shops.

10. The train station has been cleaned up. In 2004 people were coming thru the carriages before we even pulled into Budapest looking for tourists and offering them rooms in their house. At the train station lots of private drivers were hassling people for taxi rides. There were yet more people wandering the station looking for tourists to offer them rooms. All of that has disappeared.

A sad development is the number of homeless people. There are two regulars outside my supermarket. I've started saying hello and giving some change sometimes. I'm not sure if I should be buying them food when I go inside the supermarket and have got mixed advice about doing this. Unfortunately we cant talk to each other due to language differences.

What Budapest has not lost is its small city feel, architectural charm, and hospitality. With improved language skills people have been more open and welcoming during this trip. It seems the country is overall moving to the German model in terms of atmosphere and standard of living

It seems so far the city has maintained the right balance of keeping its original character while still being able to modernize.

Its been nice getting to know some of the locals and students who have been coming to the classes. Some of them I could develop friendships but sadly I am leaving after the course so wont be around.

I hope to keep in touch and who knows when I'll be back again. I have only good memories from my last three visits and lots of new friends.