We're now sitting on the ferry from the South Island to the North. Every part of me aches, but as there's nothing I can do for the next few hours, I'm going to distract myself by writing.

Coming back over "the hill" from Golden Bay didn't seem nearly as bad as going there since we knew what to expect. We also stopped halfway to hike up to a look-out point. Brian said it was "practice for the canyon trip" but as it turns out, there was nothing that could prepare me for that.

We had lunch and grabbed groceries for dinner. We were starting to get tired of spending so much money for mediocre food. We drove to our next interesting place to sleep- the yurt. They hadn't prepared us for the treacherous drive up to it- narrow winding mountain roads, but this time unpaved. Once we got there though, the surroundings were beautiful as was the yurt. Showering in the open, over-looking the expanse of bush down the mountains was simultaneously wonderful….and cold. The outdoor kitchen was fun for the two days we were there.

On Monday we woke up super early to catch our tour and water taxi out to Abel Tasman National Park, this time the east side of it. As we met our other tour members, it became clear that we were 20, or in most cases plus, years older than everyone else there. We were the "old guys" on the trip, and I was by far the least fit. Oh well, once again my stubbornness would push me forward.

They towed the boats with small tractors out onto the water. Once we got to the park, we commenced the hour and a half trek up to the top of the canyon. The upside to me being slower than the rest of the group was that the two guides took turns hanging back and telling us about various things we were passing. Brian seemed okay with hanging back and was helpful with carrying my gear for me.

Once we finally got there, I sausaged myself into a wet suit and down we went into the canyon being told in no uncertain terms that once we were in there, there was only one way out. Oh well, I'd come this far! I wasn't turning back now!! We started by rappelling down a small rock face (so that's why we couldn't turn back!) and proceeded to spend the next three hours rappelling, jumping off cliffs, sliding down and off waterfalls, zip-lining, swimming, and climbing…lots of climbing. People cheered for me often (I don't think they believed I would make it through the whole canyon), and by the end, I could barely move. The last 10 minute hike back to the boats was the hardest thing I've ever had to do.

We managed to get food, despite the fact that lifting my hand to my mouth couldn't have been more painful, and were in bed by 7:00. I woke up this morning and couldn't quite get out of bed. I think my knees have swollen to fifteen times their natural sized, the skin on my hands is worn raw, and my shoulders are somewhat seized. Apparently I need to get in better shape if I want to keep this pace, but it was awesome, and I wouldn't hesitate doing it all over again (with a few day's recovery time first of course).

We drove to Picton this morning; sadly we were a little too early for another winery breakfast, so we stopped for a brief hike instead. This really is a beautiful country. Brian says it's better to work the soreness out, but I think he's getting some twisted pleasure in watching me wince as I walk.

Time for the first big city of our trip! Wellington, here we come!!