Half way through our trip and it feels like the whole journey has been building up to this moment. Today we got to see the Hogwarts Express traverse the Glenfinnan Viaduct and the kids were beyond excited.

The day started early as some investigative work told us that the viaduct viewpoint gets busy. We knew the train went over at 1045, and that it would be 30min walk to the viewpoint so we got up and hit the road first thing, leaving coffee and breakfast for when we got there - thanks to the advantages of van life. The walk to the viewpoint was a gentle stroll and we got there in good time to secure a good spot. By the time the train came the car park and viewing area was full and I suspect that on a nice day, would be rammed. Even without Harry Potter, watching a steam train in such a stunning setting was magical.

We continued our journey north along the Road to the Isles - supposedly the most beautiful road in Scotland. We’re not sure if it matches the majestic Glencoe pass or some of the roads we cycled on when completing LEJOG, but it was beautiful. Along the route you pass several Lochs, flanked by mountains and as you near Melliag, the mountains give way to coastline: pristine white sand and turquoise waters. If it wasn’t for the freezing water and rain, you would think we were in the Caribbean. We stopped at Lock Nam Umah for lunch which we ate inside as it was raining. We did manage to venture out briefly to see a Bonnie Prince Charlie monument, before dashing back in the rain. We had a longer stop on the beach in Morar where the kids played in the sand and we all had turns to see how far we could paddle/ stay in the water before deciding it was too cold. As ever, it was “alright once you get used to it” but I wasn’t going to dash out and throw on a swimming cozzie. If anything we looked funny in shorts and flip flops… and fleece jackets.

After the beach we headed to Malliag where we were scheduled to get the 6pm ferry to Skye. We wondered around the small fishing town and got to see some Seals looking for scraps from a fishing boat that had recently returned. There was a cool little magic/Harry potter shop where Oliver spent most of his time adding to his birthday wish list. We also got to see the steam train up close as it stops for 1.5hours there to give the passengers a chance to stretch the legs before returning to Fort William. Not us though!

We could see the Isle of Skye in the distance. The ferry was small and functional. From the viewing deck we got great views across the inky black water. I kept my eyes firmly on the horizon and was pleased I didn’t get sea sick. The kids enjoyed the novelty of being on a ferry and the scenery was, as ever, beautiful. I feel like I need to find some more adjectives!

On the other side, we stopped for a quick supper at the pub. Andy and I had Venison burger with Haggis. Yum. We spent the night at our first free camping spot in Kinloch forest - a forestry commission site. It was a mile of gravel track to get here from the main road and I was nearly eaten alive by midges when I went to look at the information board, but it’ll serve us well for a night. Our original plan was to camp in a bay on a beach but even from the ferry I could see that the hills we would have needed to cross would not be great and neither of us wanted to repeat the hair raising drive to another beautiful secluded beach like the one in Wales.

The kids have been tired today, especially Elizabeth. I think the constant movement is starting to get to her. Hopefully she’ll be back to her usual self tomorrow.

Post note: do not camp in a forest! We woke up to a swarm of midges surrounding our motorhome and got out of there as quick as we could!