We got to Hanoi...eventually! After a HIGHLY eventful bus ride. Arriving in time to catch the bus, we were told that a) we'd been shafted as far as the standard of bus went (double decker VIP bus my big toe) and b) the bus to Hanoi was full. So we were sent onto the bus headed for Hue and Danang, where we had two strokes of luck - first of all we met Simon and John, 2 English lads who were similarly trying to get to Hanoi and had befriended a Vietnamese guy who seemed to know the score. Secondly, we were put at the back of the bus (clearly the "stick the Westerners here out of the way" seats) which meant we had stupid amounts of leg room - so despite the fact we weren't QUITE going in the right direction, at least it was set to be an ok journey! We arrived on the border around 4am. It didn't open til half 7 (why? WHY not just leave Vientiane 3 hours later?!?!) and took us 3 hours to get through, getting our first taste of queueing Vietnamese-style (use your elbows and shout). Eventually we were back on the bus and on our way...only to be shunted off the bus a few hours later and onto a public bus where Vietnamese were crammed 4 to a seat (and it still wasn't heading to Hanoi). Another few hours later, we were herded off this bus and onto a minibus, FINALLY a vehicle actually heading to Hanoi, and what do you know, after a mere 26 hour journey from Vientiane, we arrived at Hanoi's bus station!

Hanoi is crazy - the motorbikes all aim for you as you cross the road and anyone who can sell you anything (from moto or cyclo rides to photos with Vietnamese hats on to hostels to god knows what else) will try their utmost. My patience is wearing thin, Caroline tells me I must be more tolerant. But after the 15th "No thank you" and smile, it does get a touch wearing. Anyway, we arrived and had a fab meal after settling into a hotel with the boys (oh and spending about 30 mins trying to retrieve Simon's backpack from the boot of the taxi, where the driver had locked it thinking we were going to leg it without paying. Unfortunately Simon's money was in his bag. And 2 guys practically had to rip out the back seats to get into the boot. So the driver shot himself in the foot there a bit really). It's much more Chinese here than anywhere else we've been - in terms of architecture and people and religion and food - and I'm definitely beginning to get a real sense of the different identities of all the countries we've been to so far. And it is beautiful - the countryside on the bus journey was amazing, and the sunset over the limestone peaks pretty incredible. I suppose I've got mixed feelings about Vietnam so far and I'm waiting for something to tip me one way or the other!

Marc and Shay (our friends from the Perhentians/Bangkok/Chiang Mai) met us here, as did the Tribe's Chris after a few days in Singapore working (wasn't THAT a surprise appearance in some random street in Hanoi!). We spent a day wandering around Hanoi, exploring at first and then desperately trying to find a bar - we found the food section, the electronics section, the flower section, the clothes section, the mechanics section and the Korean tea section, but my GOD it took us a long time to find ANYWHERE to have a drink!

With Marc, Shay and Chris, we went to Halong Bay. Chris only did a 2-day trip (the rest of us 3), and we all had a wonderful time. The first day was by far the best - beautiful weather, lovely beaches and swimming in crystal green water, exploring a couple of caves and then spending a great evening going through our repertoire of drinking games! Waking up for a 6.30am breakfast was less fun the next day, and the heavens had opened to deliver a phenomenal thunderstorm - but Halong Bay was no less beautiful. Due to our overactive evening and lack of sleep, we had a quiet day, embarking at Cat Ba and spending the morning looking around the town. After lunch, we went kayaking from Monkey Island (really getting into this kayaking malarky!), swam in the bay and spied the monkeys for which the island is named - one of them so small it could barely balance its long tail!

The next day we returned to Hanoi and bade farewell to the crazy place, as well as to Marc and Shay. We're continuing southwards, stopping over in Hue before heading to Hoi An where we'll hopefully meet up with Chris, Simon and John variously. In the meantime, we've got another overnighter to look forward to...