After a 5 hour private transfer to Sao Paulo to get a 12 hour overnight bus we arrived in Campo Grande. Greeted by a tout from Santa Clara Pousada we decided they were the best option for the Pantanal - Motto Grosso package. An American guy, Dave, joined us, shortly after the four of us were transferred by 4x4 on a 5 hour journey, in the rain as well, to the Pantanal Santa Clara farm. As we got there the rain stopped and we went on a night safari where we saw a tarantula cross our path, Capiburas, Caymans and a silver fox.

After the nights rest in hammocks only 20m from the banks which are home to the Caymans , the early morning start was worth the piranha and cayman infested river safari. We saw very cute and fast otters, kingfishers, stalks and more Capiburas. The guide fished out a few piranhas and proceeded to dive into the water and encouraged us to do so too. I however held common sense handy and found it adventurous enough to stand on the bank of the river watching. Of course nothing happened to the guide, but still.

After lunch we made full use of the pool to relieve us from some of the heat. Not too long after the hiking boots and deet (mozzy repellent) came on for the afternoon jungle trek. Having seen many a picture of toucans it was obviously high on our list to see, but alas there were just non about. We offered the guide a beer if he spotted a toucan and a bottle of pisco if he spotted a Jaguar. So turns out the guide got his beer, but we kept the pisco and concluded that seeing a Jaguar in the Pantanal is a load of "Jag". The trek offered us up close views of the jungle animals including Armadillo, Raccoons, Monkeys, different parrot species and more tarantellas and Toucans. However, seeing that it was mosquito season the walk came at a price eventhough we were all "deeted" up. The evening safari was our loop back and we saw toucans by night and some of the same animals we saw the previous evening. Our last night in the hammocks.

It turned out that the American guy was a barman at a very exclusive resort in the States and was able to very creatively conjur up some Caiparinhas with locally bought Casasha. That and the wonky pool table was our entertainment in the wild.

Before coming to South America I had two goals in mind for my trip: 1) To learn Spanish and 2) To learn to Lasso. Well, number 2 got crossed off the list when the gaucho taught me to lasso, I had a few lessons on the ground and then took it to the horse, was so surreal and unbelievable. Pleased with myself I joined the group for an outride, again gaucho riding style (one handed handling), which I've learned to appreciate and perhaps even prefer. Our full on Pantanal programme sadly came to an end. By listening to the travellers grapevine we decided to go to Bonito next.