Yesterday (3rd) Spent quiet day trying to settle my frazzled nerves after the mayhem of Mumbai and THAT bus trip. In the evening went to Bagore-ki-Haveli (haveli means traditional, ornately decorated residence), which was built in the 18th century on the water's edge. There I watched a traditional Rajasthani dance performance, including a dance with a woman with 9 pots on her hand, dancing on glass - they do like to see their women suffer! Today (4th) arranged to have a tour of the city with the same driver as before. Udaipur is set amongst green hills and encompasses many lakes, although due to a poor monsoon for 4 years these are very dry in places. The city was founded in 1568 and is full of palaces, temples and havelis. We began the day at the Saheliyon-ki-Bari, also called The Garden of the Maids of Honour. This small, quaint, ornamental garden was built by the king for his wife, the princesses and maids as a place to shower in private and is surrounded by a high wall. A lasting tradition in India is that where a woman, upon her marriage, will cover her face from all other males as a mark of respect for her husband. This garden allowed the women the freedom to shower and bathe in privacy, apart from the king that is who had a throne built within the gardens, so that he could watch them all!! The fountains have no mechenical workings and are run purely on water pressure from one of the large lakes. Next a trip around the lakes, Pichola being the largest. There are 2 islands within this lake, Jagmandir and Jagniwas. Jagniwas is Lake Palace Island and was formerly the royal summer palcae, but today it is the ultimate in luxury hotels - sadly out of my budget. On to Shilpgram, a crafts village which has displays of traditional mud huts from Rajasthan, Goa, Gujarat and Maharashtra. There are also demonstrations by performers and artisans from these states. On to the Monsoon Palace, or Sajjan Garh, a 19th century palace set on a distant mountain. The views are breathtaking and the whole city is laid out in front of you. For the sad James Bond 007 buffs amongst you (that's you Lee), the film Octop**** was made in and around the city, so if you watch it you will be able to see most of the sights I have described. On returning to the old city my driver, Naveen Audichya, took me to his home to meet his wife and two children. The kids were very shy and wary of the stranger in their midst, but came round when I was offered ice cream, as it meant that they got some too. The family live in one room about 12 foot square. In it there is a double day bed, two seats from some kind of vehicle, a small table with a TV and a fridge/freezer and is spotlessly clean. With such simplicity it makes you wonder what they would make of Bluewater?! When I returned to the guest house it was then a mad rush to pack for my trip to the train station at 1700. How's this for a bargain - 3 and a half days board, all meals and drinks, laundry washed and ironed, two trips (whole day and half a day) for the grand total of 41 pounds! Let's hope the train to Delhi is better than the bus ride here - surely it can't be any worse....... Sherry xx