Our last day in San Pedro, we hired bikes and road north on a dirt road to the Atacamena Indigenous Catarpe area. There are so many cycle hire places here and peak season is over so hire prices are low. We had 2 bikes for 6 hours for seven pounds in total. One of those stray dogs took a shine to us and led the way for us for several miles - he seemed to know all the turns to our destination. We were the first riders of the day at the check point (payment point!). We were supposed to turn right by a tree to enter the 'Devil's throat'. There was a tree and a signpost - thank goodness because it wasn't the only tree on the track! We road into a canyon similar to the cave walk in Valle de la Luna, except even at the narrowest parts we still had daylight and didn't have to crawl. We planned to fit a lot in today so we headed back before reaching the end. Next stop was the Pukara de Quitor (Fort of Quitor). This Pukará was built by the Atacamena people in the XII Century to defend themselves from other settlements in the surrounding area. After 20 years of the Spanish Invaders trying to rule the inhabitants of the Pukara, they finally settled on a truce, but Spanish influences soon overtook indigenous traditions (history lesson over). The walk up to get the best view of the Pukara was extremely hot, we were glad there was a shelter affording us some shade to rest and have lunch. The hottest part of the day and we rode into 'Valley of the Death'. We had already seen this from high for free 2 days earlier but I decided we should have a closer look. At first it seemed a let down and the free view seemed the better option. Finally, we reached the sand dune area, the popular activity here is sand boarding (snow boarding but on sand). There was only two people with boards, we guessed that most people would have surfed earlier in the day when the heat wasn't so punishing. The hard bit is walking up the dunes - no chair lifts here. We watched a couple of runs which ended in sand crashes then headed for home. The views on the ride out (which was downhill) were far better than those riding in - it was worth it after all. We called at the 'booze' shop but it was shut! We were told there was another shop that was close to our digs where we could buy beer but we couldn't find it. We asked in our hostel but were told we had to walk back in town. Then we spotted a guy filling the communal fridge with a mountain of beer, we quizzed him on where he bought it. He had brought it with him from Calama (two hours drive away), he kindly gave us a can for free, it went down very easily. The hostel here is so clean and we get clean towels everyday - to be more precise they wash all your towels in the morning and by lunchtime you get them back dry! I developed toothache today, hoping it's nothing serious. The temperature eased as the afternoon approached evening and we decided to trek back into town for wine and beer. Water may have been a wiser choice, cycling Valley of the death in 35 Deg C had taken its toll and we both felt limp. Nube (the toy poodle) appeared wearing her dog pyjamas - bed, what a good idea.