The lady running our hostel In San Pedro de Atacama owns a toy poodle called Nube which means cloud, this is quite ironic as you rarely see a cloud in the Atacama Desert. We started another cloudless day (not counting Nube), took a stroll into town to take in the sights and shop for lunch and dinner including the 'booze' shop which had so far alluded us. On the way back to our place I spotted a hostel with a car grill outside and a table made from a car engine. I started taking pics and the owner called me inside to see even more car parts used as furniture - wow what a cool place to stay. At around 3pm Hendrik & Francine picked us up in their hired 4-wheel drive and we headed out to visit Valle de la Luna (valley of the moon). Instead of arriving late like yesterday we were early and ahead of the tourist buses. You pay an admission fee then drive (or cycle) in, following the dirt road and stopping at various places where you can explore on foot. First stop was caves and canyon, you are advised to bring a torch and you need it. The narrow pathway between twisted towering rocks gets narrower and narrower, then you are hemmed in from above and find yourselves almost on hands and knees just to get through. The acrobatic crawling is rewarded with a respite from the burning sun, but this is short lived and its soon time for the hat and sunglasses again. After the cave you find yourself climbing up and over the moon like landscape until you reach the canyon. A short drive was succeeded by another walk this time up to the large dune. The tour groups stop at the first viewpoint but we had the freedom to follow the trail to its furthest point. Hendrik & Francine had already made the turning on the return path so we had the end viewpoint all to ourselves. The scenery is out of this world, Valley of the Moon seems a very fitting name. The third walk was up the Araches, Donna sensibly returned the same way as we came, whereas the rest of us followed a narrow vertiginous ridge. Francine found herself struggling and starting to lose footing as the path countered the steep side of the ridge. I came to her rescue and we backtracked to find an easier route on the other side of the ridge. A steep, loose descent re-united us with Donna and the Chevy. One more walk to Victoria mine and a short drive to the three Maries, both were quite tame compared with what we had already seen. We were all so glad that we hadn't paid to enter the previous day as we wouldn't have seen half of it. It really is one of the main tourist attractions here for good reason. A short drive away is the Mirador de Ckari (otherwise known as the Coyote lookout), you are recommended to come here for sunset overlooking Valle de la Luna. We couldn't have timed it better. All the serious photographers were already set up with their tripods. We muscled in on the action just in time to watch the sun disappear and the Valle de la Luna down below glow golden for a few minutes. One more task before Hendrik drove us back - to fill up with gas again. Hendrik and Francine were leaving the next day and had to return the pick up with a full tank. So, another navigation through the narrow, dusty, sometimes one-way streets of San Pedro to the well-hidden gas station. Hendrik had found out why it is in such an awkward place. The town has expanded (because of tourism) around the once very accessible gas station. The town is governed by the Indigenous Atacama populous and they will not consent to a new one being built on the outskirts - they also carefully control licenses to sell alcohol which is why none of the mini-markets can. We said our goodbyes to H & F, and enjoyed a hot shower to wash away the dust and sweat. Another full day, another great day.