Today's challenge was not too difficult, to get down to Dole which was well on the way back to Namche. Gokio had 5 lakes so we set off before breakfast to find lake 4. It was an easy 2 hour return stroll and the lake was unimpressive. Breakfast was more naan and tea. We asked Bom if we could go over the other pass from Gokio, a longer and more challenging way of getting to Namche, but we didn't have time and the weather by this stage was driving snow. We said goodbye to the guesthouse owner and headed off to lake 2 and the climb down to Dole. After 10 minutes of so of walking, Bom stopped and rummaged around in his bag for a while. He produced some filled rolls which he handed to me. This man's kindness and generosity knows no boundaries and our expectations of him go through the roof! The snow was heavy and full Arctic attire was enforced. Eventually, we climbed down to a small village of a few lodges and shops on the flat valley floor. It was time for our first tea break. As we set up base in the desolate village, the sleet, snow and rain intensified so we hung around for a while, reading some very suspect and dated Nepalese tourism books. The weather eased, and we were back on track. Today's walking was through many villages that were badly affected by the earthquake 12 months ago. We learnt that some areas were almost unaffected, whilst others close by, obliterated. There were a number of ruins and a few rebuild projects of the go as we passed a number of small hamlets and steadings. Today's was mainly about 'the down' and eventually we make it to Dole. Bom let us choose our guesthouse so we made tracks to the closest one. It was cold and bleak in Dole and we managed to persuade the owner to get the yak s*** fire on quickly. We had some dal bat, chatted to some other American trekkers and sat by the fire. This was pretty much the last week of the season so most people were already off the mountains and back down in Namche and Lukla. We were some of the last ones to make it down, so there were very few others around. We had a good sleep and looked forward to getting to the bright lights of Namche Bazzar tomorrow.