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Today's destination was Debouche at over 4000 meters. The first part of the journey from Namche was pretty easy, we were walking around the side of the hill which was a nice wide, reasonably flat track. We passed through a coupe of small villages and a few jewellery stands on the way. We passed loads of local porters who were taking goods up to higher villages. The porters get paid by the weight they carry, and some of the loads are unbelievable! Many are carrying large wooden doors, about 6 or 7 at a time. Others carry kerosene (the main fuel in the mountains), chairs, rice, timber and everything in between.
We reached a steep climb down to the river where we crossed a small bridge before starting the steep climb up the next hill. It was an slow climb up as we were now really starting to feel the altitude. Although we both felt quite fit, we soon realised that we had to get into the rhythm of slow, steady footsteps to avoid big gasps for breath every few seconds! Eventually (after a few more "how much longer's?" We made it up to the top of the hill which was now covered in mist and freezing cold. There was one large lodge, a coupe of bakeries and a huge monastery. We were another 30 minutes walk from our lodge but we were told that we could come back at 3pm to see the monks meditating. We made it quickly down the hill as the cold was starting to hit home and my earlier idea of shorts was turning out to be a bad decision! We arrived at our lodge and attempted to get warm which was tricky because the place was ice cold! This place had a fire but it would be on until later so our sleeping bags were our only saving grace for just now - we just had to wait for Bom, the porter to turn up with them! At just after 2 we decided that the best way to get warm would be a walk back up the steep hill to the monastery. We got there about quarter to 3 and went for a wander round, speaking to a coupe of the friendly monks. We sat outside waiting for 3pm when the monks would arrive for meditation. A few more trekkers turned up, we watched a dog finish his dinner then the horns sounded which signalled the start of meditation. Shoes off, we entered the main hall which was brightly coloured with an enormous gold Buddha facing us. We sat against the wall and watched as the first monk came in, put on his robes and began chanting. Soon after, 3 or 4 more entered and began their chats, stopping
event five minutes or so for a sip of tea. The process went on for 40 minutes of so an although it was an interesting spectacle, were relieved when it was finished! A quick check on the cakes in the bakery, and we were on our way back down to the freezing lodge. By now however, the fire was on and the dining room was starting to heat up. We had dinner then had an evening of playing cards and 'uno' with some of the other Nepalese guides, one of which coined the phrase of the evening "what to do, Kathmandu?!" We wind and lost some games then headed to our ice box for some much needed sleep.
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