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Started our journey to Christchurch and as the sun was shining decided to retrace our steps back into Kaikoura to visit the seal sanctuary and see if the all allusive seals were basking on the rocks and indeed they were! Fantastic views over the bay in the sunshine and brilliant sightings of seals. Tom got up quite close and personal to get a photo and then read that a distance of 20M was recommended as seals can become a little aggressive if they feel threatened!
Whilst on the peninsular we visited a whale catcher's cottage, the first in Kaikoura and then began our journey to Christchurch hugging the coastline and railway stopping along the way to admire the views and catch the seals playing on the water's edge. Stopped off for brunch with a view of the Pacific and discovered that most of the customers were English, of a 'certain age' and enjoying similar travels!
Arrived in Christchurch late afternoon, dropped the car off and went straight into the city centre - really sad to see so many buildings either destroyed or boarded up as deemed unsafe to inhabit (apparently 70% of the city building have either been demolished or are waiting to be demolished).
All around it is obvious to see that this lovely city has been absolutely devastated by the earthquakes of 2010 and 2011. Meeting locals we began to hear exactly how harrowing this events were but without exception there was an atmosphere of resilience and fortitude as the city slowly moves towards renewal.
A great example is the "Restart Village" which is effectively a venue created from sea containers which have been converted into retail outlets, café's and bars. Although a stop gap it has a really nice feel and is buzzing with visitors as well as locals.
The evening was getting on and as we walked around some of the rest of the city it appeared as a ghost town; so deserted with plots empty, some boarded up and some left just as they had been 4 years ago when their owners had to flee.
Walked back to the hotel via Hagley park (their equivalent of Hyde park) - interesting as they were setting up /rehearsing for the opening of the Cricket (ICC) world cup on Thursday (next day).
Had a lie in and walked back into the city through the park and had breakie's in the sun at the café by the botanical gardens (gorgeous!). Went off on a city tour (open London double decker bus) to get our bearings and followed up with a trip to the museum and then to the 'Cardboard Cathedral' - an extraordinary building, constructed mainly with cardboard tubes and reinforced by wood and steel. It was erected soon after the earthquake to allow a place of worship to replace the sad loss of Christchurch's Anglican Cathedral and to provide hope for the residents of Christchurch, it is predicted that it can stand for 50 years - how lovely is that.
Close by to the cardboard cathedral is a memorial to those who perished in the earthquake; some 185 differing chairs painted white, with fitting tributes and a list of those 185 lost - very moving.
Also visited an exhibition /tribute describing the event and aftermath and it is really inspiring to see how Christchurch plan to rebuild the city, a city that, to quote; "shall stand up to the next earthquake"! - For that is how the New Zealanders see it and they live with the ever present threat of seismic activity and the devastation that it may bring.
Next stop Greymouth via the Trans alpine railway - both looking forward to the journey.
- comments
jacqui how inspiring! xxx wonderful to hear how they are rejuvenating the city xx
Gilly and Sicunder We too are finding that we are meeting people of a 'similar age' doing what we are doing, loving your blog xxx