PORTO - Part 1

We arrived in Porto about 7 hours after leaving Lagos. It was an early morning train and we only had to change once. Despite it being a long day, it's the most economical and efficient way to get there (apart from driving). Actually a bus is cheaper, but having discovered that the discount given to seniors on trains in Portugal (50%) is still available in 1st class, it was a no-brainer to pay CAD$100 for the two of us!

After 5 weeks in the laid-back atmosphere of a beach town, being back in a bustling city, needed a quick adjustment, so off we went to find our new lodgings. We quickly discovered that Porto is putting in another subway line - and the city is a mess of construction, with both road & sidewalk closures. This makes both drivers, pedestrians and pretty well everyone else "testy!" Our driver couldn't get us "to the door"….so dragging our cases from the taxi, we crossed streets, made detours and squeezed through sidewalks with high barriers on both sides. We finally asked directions from a man, who was helping other lost souls outside the hotel where he worked. This very kind individual walked us around a corner, as we once again maneuvered ourselves - and suitcases - through throngs of people. We were lucky enough to be led right to the door of our building, where we met our new "host." Situated on the 5th (top) floor, in a lovely old building right in the historic centre, we were directly across from the iconic Säo Bento railway station and close to everything. Our "digs" for the next 5 nights were renovated to a high standard, with underfloor heating throughout. Designed with an open plan, it has pocket doors to give room separation, if desired. Due to high ceilings, all rooms are full of light, with each room also having at least one set of large French doors. All of these doors open onto a terrace that spans across the whole apartment. We did wonder if it would be noisy, but it wasn't - perhaps due to the building having old and very thick stone walls. The first night was actually the only time we heard any sounds - it was Halloween, with the following day - All Saints Day - being a holiday in Portugal…..and Porto was partying!

Our first full day was spent walking around, getting in a few supplies and re-acquainting ourselves with a city we've visited 3 or 4 times before on day trips. On a small pedestrian side street we paused - mid-afternoon, for refreshments, including a yummy chocolate tart. Later on we had a drink, while watching the sunset from the terrace of N'o Mercado - an old industrial building which now holds events plus houses some "late-night" clubs. The terrace overlooks the lovely green space of Praça Infante D. Henrique and has a peek-a-boo view of the river.

The next day we ticked an item off our "bucket list," with a visit to Livraria Lello, considered by some as the most beautiful book store in the world. Others know it as the book store that inspired the staircase and/or the book store where Harry Potter bought his books before going off to school at Hogwarts. It's been said that JK Rowling, the author of the Harry Potter series, wrote the first book there when she lived in Porto….but with no place to sit and write, it's hard to believe she could write a whole book there. It is easy, though, to believe that she was inspired after seeing the inside of this lovely place - and it does seems likely that it's where she got some of her ideas. The success of her books have been extremely good for the shop. It used to be free to enter, until it was realized that despite the number of daily visitors, a very small percentage of people actually bought anything. Now the entrance fee of €6 per person at the door, or €5 on line, is deducted off any purchase.
Although we'd tried to visit on each of our visits to Porto, the line-ups were always way too long. This time we were "wily" and kept checking back during the day to monitor the line. Around 5.15, when the line was a short as we'd ever seen it - in we went (after only a 30 minute wait). Is it worth the wait and the entrance fee? Without a doubt - It's stunning! Founded in 1869, it was owned by the Lello family from 1894, but at a different location. The current store was built in 1906 and was immediately celebrated by the literacy circles of the day and was considered luxurious - which it is.
The first thing seen upon entering is the wide red stairway and the beautiful woodwork. High above is a stained glass ceiling with the Lello motto - "decus in labore" which was the Lello brother's motto, meaning "honour in work." The outside of the store looks more like a church, but inside Art-nouveau is everywhere - the columns, the walls and the curve of the bright red stairs. Books are also everywhere - stacked in neat piles on tables, and filling bookcases that line the walls. Upstairs there's some interesting prints of the covers of old Time magazines. Books are sold in many languages ….so don't forget to buy one and get the ticket price deducted off your purchase….did we? Take a guess!

On our one day of rain, we walked through some neighbourhoods that are away from the centre and tourist area. We saw a lovely old church atop some very steep steps and went in - there was no one there but us. We never did find the name of it, but from information at the site we learned that it was built in 1894 on the site of a previous chapel - dated 1750, with the steep staircase being built in 1805. We spent quite some time inside, gazing upwards at the beautiful - and unusual - peach coloured ceiling and the carved, wooden choir stalls. In a small, attached museum there was a collection of some religious pieces - many of them housed in attractive, old wooden cabinets and glass fronted cases. Later that day as we continued our wanderings, we found 2 other unusual collections of art - amazingly both were free. The first one we found close to the famous Clérigos Tower, which can be seen from most parts of Porto. Opting not to go up the tower, we did have a quick look around the church. This art collection was in a former court-house and prison, which now houses a photographic museum, which documents it's previous purpose as a jail that held prisoners awaiting sentencing. After almost 200 years the prison was closed down, just a few days after the revolution in April 1974. Prisoners were transferred and the building became part of the State Heritage & Cultural program….this was mainly due to the hierarchy of "accommodation" which was given by either the rank or crime of the prisoner. It is a unique example of a judicial/prison combination.
In addition to a collection of cameras, dating from the beginning of the 20th century, there are many photographs on display. Some are photographs of prisoners, and documents the manner in which the picture was taken. Staring directly into the camera with a defiant or frightened look, tends to frequently give an impression of guilt. During the time of early photography, the position of the person being photographed had to be held for quite a long time in order to capture the image….this could lead to "a guilty look!" Some of the prisoners, did indeed look guilty - but many, especially the ones who were mere children, just looked frightened. Another display of photographs entitled "The Light of Childhood" documents how children were photographed between 1901-1969. There are many scenes of children, in various situations, but most are from simple, everyday life. In many ways it shows how differently children have been perceived over time. All of the exhibits are set in a minimalistic manner which reflects the starkness and beauty of this building, despite its past.

The other art collection was of tiles....those gorgeous azulejos tiles, which in the past were hand painted, but now are mostly made in bulk. In a small building, we listened in to a conservertor give both a history of these tiles, plus details on how she and her colleagues catalogue them. We were also lucky enough to see a small collection of the tiles. When various buildings around the city are renovated or demolished, these gifted and patient people move in take samples of each and every pattern - which usually numbers anywhere from 1 to 16 (16 being the highest number allowed by government regulation). Upon request the remainder of the tiles of the same pattern may be given away - but only for buildings in Porto. There is, apparently, also a lot of "red tape" ….but because they are lovely, who wouldn't want them? It was also made clear to us that although the modern, mass-produced ones are attractive, they're all exactly the same pattern - and a lot thinner - and they may not stand the test of time.

***I will pause here - Porto is an amazing city and as It's difficult (for me) to be succinct when describing our time there - the next blog will be a part 2!