A DAY TRIP TO SILVES
We enjoyed another fun day out with Lynn and Richard…this time to Silves - a small city that's an easy drive from Lagos - that is if you have a car! We were lucky enough to be invited along to join our friends, who'd rented one. Alternatively there's the bus - but it makes frequent stops along the way. There's a boat cruise - but that depends on the tides, due to the river Arade being quite shallow in town. There's also a train station, but then it's a long walk from Silves train station into town, although do-able for the "fit." Whatever the transportation decision is - do visit Silves, it's an interesting and lovely town.

The 10th century castle is the most visited place in this city - it's the best preserved castle in the Algarve. We enjoyed spending time there, but there's other good reasons to visit. There's a great museum and some lovely old architecture. Unfortunately too many of the old buildings are in disrepair and/or abandoned. In the old town there's plenty of shops selling local products and handicrafts plus a daily market that's just across from the river. There's also several bars and restaurants in the old town.

**A quick note here - Silves is built on a hill, so walking around can be tiring and a bit tricky for some people when navigating the old, cobbled streets. Sensible walking shoes are essential **

We strolled up through the streets of the old town and were just about to enter the castle, but had stopped to admire a Pillory. While reading and interpreting the information beside it, we were approached by an older gentleman who became our "unofficial" tour guide for the next 20 minutes or so. Not only did he explain the iron rings which were at the end of the serpent's head on this pillory-post (they were used for hangings), but he led us up some steps to a judiciary building and gave us "the back story" on it. Apparently this lovely building was opened by the King 2 years before he was assassinated in 1910. Our guide also gave us directions to a palace, just a few streets away...purposely built for the King's 2-night stay when he visited Silves for this occasion.
We listened to this very interesting man and his stories - including how high the river used to be, and also when part of the old castle wall was removed and rerouted to build an apartment block. His English was, fortunately, very good as our Portuguese language skills are very poor. The only time he faltered was when describing the colour of the walls, which have an unusual reddish hue. As we all searched for the right word - his command of English proved good enough to get the information across to us ….these were his words - "it's the hair colour of the son of the new King Charles - not the heir, the crazy one." We got the message…the paint colour he was describing was "ginger" (like Harry's hair!) The very last thing he pointed out to us, was where he lived…and then off he went - up a steep flight of steps. We send him our thanks - he is a man who's definitely very proud of his town.

After paying a very small entrance fee, we entered The Castle of Silves - a castle from the Moorish era, built between the 8th and 13th century and restored in the 20th century. Situated on the highest part of the town, it was used to defend the whole population of Silves in war time. From the castle we enjoyed the beautiful panoramic views over Silves and its surroundings. The castle walls enclose a huge area of approx 12,000 square meters. Built of "rammed earth" or tapia, with foundations of sandstone blocks that were once whitewashed and decorated. Archeological interest, which started here at the end of the 19th century still continues today. Two water cisterns have been discovered - the largest of which supplied the city with water until 1990's. The other one, was given the nickname "Cisterna dos Caes" (Cistern of Dogs), due to the fact that up until the middle of the last century, any stray dog found in the city was thrown into it….so hopefully this cistern was not used for any of the city's water!
We walked the castle walls, enjoying the views of the interior as well as the lovely scenery beyond. There are views of the river, the old Roman bridge and quite a few stork's nests - something that's seen on many high polls and towers throughout the Algarve.
At ground level we wandered through the archaeological "dig" where information boards tell of houses, stables and warehouses. It also reinforces the violence associated with 13th century conquest of the castle, with tales of the skeletons of young men that have been found - many with obvious battle injuries. Bath complexes, sanitary facilities and the evidence of garden patios, point to the presence of an important palatial residence within the walls. All that history had us longing for a break, so the four of us took advantage of the modern café that's set in a lovely peaceful area within the grounds. Surrounded by water and lush plant life, including grasses and lavender, plus olive and pomegranate trees, we enjoyed snacks and a drink. To add to the atmosphere of being inside the high, old castle walls we were lucky enough to be there on a day when a gathering of costumed archers, who hold competitions in castles throughout Portugal, were having a tournament…what an added treat.

Although the cathedral was closed to the public (it was Sunday), we did experience lots more history at the Archaelogical museum close by. With detailed exhibits from prehistoric, Roman, Phoenician and Moorish times our minds became "full"….and by the end of the day, were saturated! Fortunately both Trevor and myself + Lynn and Richard all have a very similar interest - we enjoy studying and taking our time in historic places….so none of us were upset or bored!
With one last thing to do before we left….we did track down the old palace which was built for the King's visit when opening the judiciary building. Unfortunately it's boarded up and in need of a lot of repair. Our Portuguese gentleman "guide" told us we'd recognize it by the crown at the top….we did….there it was!

The old walled section of Silves has remained unchanged for more than 300 years, and with only limited development outside of the old town, the atmosphere is totally different from the tourist areas along the coast. It is a real treasure of a place to visit and shouldn't be missed.