Lots of hikes - and goodbye to Lagos

I've written about some of our day trips and time spent in Lagos, but there's just a few more "stories" to tell - so before I end this part of our trip, here they are:-

Our first day trip with Lynn and Richard was to Sagres and Cabo de Sao Vicente - a windswept area, which we'd wanted to visit, but had always postponed due to the long bus trip needed to get there - and the problems of making sure there was enough time to get back. It was a blustery, rainy day when we went - and kudos to Lynn for driving and negotiating some narrow places, despite the 3 of us chattering away throughout the journey….although Richard still managed to do a good job as the navigator!
Sagres is a small town on the south-western tip of Portugal, in one of the most remote regions of the country. It's a laid-back, relaxing place which to some has a cool vibe, while others would say it's remote, rugged and wild - but all agree that this slightly scruffy, unkempt and down-at-heels town is a unique place. Surfers, cyclists, hikers and lovers of sheltered, pristine beaches love it. There are 4 beaches within walking distance of the town. The calm waters of Praia do Martinhal on the eastern side, provides soft sands, calm waters and is completely sheltered from the prevailing winds. The Praia do Tonel faces in a westerly direction and is pounded by some of the largest waves of the region, making it suitable for only the most expert of surfers.

After walking the town, which doesn't take long, and a look at the beaches, we carried on to the Sagres Fortress, which is built on a dramatic headland, jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean. Dating back to the 15th century, little remains of the Fort except the impressive arch at the entrance plus the walls - although some restoration was done in the 20th century. More recent updates include a gift shop and a cafeteria….and a strange concrete maze (yes we went in!) There's also a small chapel.
We walked the whole inside perimeter - which is huge - but it's really all about the views, which are truly spectacular - and hard to describe. High cliffs, with crashing waters below - which, although hard to believe, do sometimes reach up and over the cliff tops during severe storms. Another surprising sight, given the elevation, was of a few fishermen standing right at the edge of a cliff….but we did see one man pulling up a fish!

It's a further 10 minute drive to Cabo Sao Vincente, where again it's all about the views. There's a working lighthouse, which was built on the sight of a former Franciscan monastery. Towering over the cliffs it can be seen from 60 miles out at sea, making it one of the most powerful in the country. Apart from the amazing scenery, there's not much else except a small gift shop, a museum and a café….but the landscape and the views are certainly worth the trip.

On a much sunnier day the 4 of us spent a couple of hours in Carveiro. There's a small but lovely beach that's sheltered by the high cliffs surrounding it, which makes for an idyllic cove that's popular with tourists. With Lynn at the wheel, she skillfully maneuvered the very tight streets and quickly found a parking spot, close to the top of the cliffs. A boardwalk at the top, winds and curves for just over 1/2 km, across the stunning rock formations and ocean below. We started our slow and easy stroll along this boardwalk at Nossa Senhora da Encarnação fort, where only a small section of the original wall remains. Built in 1670, it was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. The fort we see today was reconstructed in 1825.
The walk along this elevated wooden path is an easy one and is suitable for all, including children and the less mobile. It could be done quite quickly, but we took our time, pausing every minute or two to look at the stunning coastline. With caves and dramatic cliff formations, it's a popular walking spot. There are helpful information boards along the walkway, which give details on bird and plant life, plus many benches to sit on while gazing out to sea. From one of these boards we learned that Algar Seco - the name of this limestone cliff formation - comes from the Arabic word algár, meaning the cave. This part of the coastline features a maze of these ochre-coloured rocks that have been sculpted by the elements into a variety of shapes, caves and sinkholes.
At the opposite end to the Fort there's a café which can be reached by a long and steep flight of steps. Although it's not an easy descent, it's certainly popular…. many people use these steps as a starting point to walk across and down onto the rock formations. Another favourite place along the boardwalk for this dangerous occupation is down some other well worn steps that pass through a cave, where two eroded arches give spectacular views over the ocean. There's also an exposed sinkhole where the seawater has penetrated the base, forming a shallow saltwater pool.

A few days after this lovely walk, we said our goodbyes to Lynn and Richard, when they went home to Scotland. The night before leaving, they took us to their favourite restaurant for dinner, where they're well known and liked by the both the owners and their favourite server. Sending a big thanks to them for the dinner and for taking us along on some memorable day trips. The four of us had loads of laughs and fun together and there were some moist eyes when we parted ways…hopefully it won't be another 3 years until we get together.

There's also a tough hike that Trevor and I had done before - but even knowing what we were in for, we decided to do it again! This hike goes across the cliff tops that stretch from the tiny town of Bergau to Praia de Luz. It's more than 3 miles over rugged terrain, plus there's a sizeable hill to go up, over and then back down the other side. The views from the top and all along the cliffs are lovely - and the beer we had upon arrival in Luz, tasted really good!

After almost 5 weeks in Lagos, with lots of adventures, good times and memories made, the time came to bid a fond farewell and move on to Porto. We'll really miss Lagos and the lovely neighbourhood where we "lived" - I can honestly say that the bakery, just steps from our apartment, had some of the best Pastel de Nata we've ever had - and we've eaten a lot! The fruit and vegetables from the small warehouse, was without doubt the very best produce we've eaten - anywhere….but it's not just about the food! The experience of being part of a local community - despite it being just a few minutes from the centre of a tourist town - was memorable and special. Our Portuguese neighbours made us welcome. We'll miss the friendly servers at the restaurant where we ate pizza on 5 consecutive Friday nights (a Bloy tradition)…..It was such a nice gesture when they waved to us whenever we passed by on our walks through that area of town. We'll miss the river and the cliffs and the beaches. We'll miss our walks, our strolls - and all of those tiring hikes! We'll miss the narrow, streets and the surprise of seeing a small alleyway or cobbled walkway that we'd never seen before. We'll even miss some of the "crabby" bus drivers, who certainly have a lot of tolerance to put up with us tourists!

The final thank you goes to Ramiro, our Airbnb "host," who picked us up from Faro airport, which was very welcome after a long overnight flight. He was even kinder on the day we left. In order for us to catch our early morning train at 6.15, he picked us up and delivered us to the train station. For this very early Sunday morning he refused any kind of payment and left us with a hug and a handshake….now that's really the kind of thing we'll miss!