Days 339-345, 17-23 May '15, Jamaa el Fna at it's Finest!

All roads in Marrakech lead to the Big Square/La Grande Place/Djmaa el Fna. Even some roads that don't. Last time in Marrakech it was actually impossible to get to the big square without someone offering to give directions (often quite forcefully). It was actually impossible to leave the big square without someone giving directions on how to get back to the big square. Some clever clogs at the Council has instituted a fairly accurate series of signs through the Medina over the last couple of years giving directions to the big square (usually the long way via the souks... but the thought was there). So that has taken the edge of the "fee for directions" services somewhat. Big Square for small fee (or was that the Small Square for a Big fee?) We are no use to anyone in the fees department as we actually know where we're going and don't need a guide to take us via his cousin's/brother's/uncle's riad/rugshop/spiceshop/art gallery. We might cruise via the square every couple of days for a 4dh/40 cent orange juice but it is usually the #1 place to visit for Marrakech newbies. Once you reach the square, the sounds of flutes and drums and the smell can be quite overwhelming. Some people find it less than charming, especially during the day (c'est moi...) but James is a huge fan). The square is quite amazing - there are snake charmers with flutes, drums blaring, monkeys on leads (really?), people walking around in colourful costumes and lampshades on their heads (making more noise), henna tattooists dead keen on marking up clean skins (with or without permission) and of course, the ubiquitous orange juice stalls. These are a must - just 4dh a glass (about 40 euro cents) for a glass and a half of fresh OJ - what a steal. (The half glass top up is for tourists... encouraging them to linger and make the place a magnet for more tourists). The other night we headed along when dusk was falling and the square was coming alive(er). The food stalls were all spruiking like crazy - including a good laugh at No. 13 - "We have pool, air conditioning and 3 year no diarrhoea guarantee!" - an insanely frenetic atmosphere. Smoke in the air, hypnotic drumming, men with snakes and monkeys sneaking up next to us to tempt us to take a photo (and pay a fee), henna tattoos everywhere... and the sun setting and sending rays of light up behind the clouds - quite magical actually. It was however the walk home through the alleys and byways of the medina that was truly magical. Dark corners outnumber streetlights 10 to 1 in Marrakech's Medina. Lucky we know where we're going.
(PS - Todays photo is from the big square by night. Sweet treats in front and The Snail Man at the cart behind - with a massive bowl of snails in broth. Apparently a delicacy to the locals but we prefer them with garlic and butter on a little plate ideally.)