Day 564, 28 Dec '15, Blue Grotto, Dingli, Rabat, Mdina, Mosta. Next week we will launch into sightseeing overdrive and get 400% of our money's worth on our Malta Passes... Which means this week is driving about, seeing natural wonders, wandering the streets of walled cities and generally having a relaxed few days. Well that was the plan anyway. Obviously it was a HUGE day as evidenced by our "been there" list above. We started with, of all things, an alarm clock. Usually reserved for Travel Day and early flights, but today we knew we needed a early start. First off, down to the Blue Grotto - a series of sea caves in the nearby cliffs. The little boat took us into various caves with different features, reflections and colours and also under the stunning 140 ft natural arch. Wow! Feeling very clever at having accomplished something by 10.30 am, it was home for a coffee and Christmas cake then back into our bargain Budget rental car (via www.economycarrentals.com - only €7.50/day. Cheaper than buses and 1000% more convenient.) We hit the backroads and headed up the coast of Malta (left hand coast if you're following along at home). First stop - Dingli Cliffs (of course, if you're a climber, they'd be the Dangly Cliffs). Very high. Very impressive. Moving on, we drove to Rabat - the slightly more modern city that has grown up around Mdina - the fortified walled city that served as the capital of Malta from antiquity until 1530, when the capital moved to Birgu (and the Knights of the Order of St John became Malta's movers & shakers). There is evidence of settlements on the site of Mdina from as far back as 4000 BC. It now has a population of 300 and has the nick-name "The Silent City". Cars are banned except for a few residents, emergency vehicles, weddings and hearses - and it was pretty quiet. Like Venice without the canals - amazing the peace in the medieval back streets without cars contributing to noise and air pollution. Prior to heading into Mdina itself, we stopped in Rabat (population 11,000) - the word actually comes from the Arabic for suburb. It was quite cold by Malta standards and we were itching to try Maltese fast food - Pastizzi - little pastry morsels stuffed full of either ricotta cheese or pea & gravy mixture - crispy and piping hot. Washed down with a Kinnie. Malta's national softdrink is described as "orange with herbal flavours" but comes closer to "medicine that will probably do some good". The first two pastizzi were so good... we had to have another couple. Fortified, we headed into Mdina for a jolly good look around and a coffee sitting up on the city walls. From there we saw, in the far, far distance, a dome. And wondered out loud if that could possibly be the Rotunda Church of Mosta. Quick check of the iPad confirmed it and having checked our watches figured we might just get there by closing time. Heading out of Mdina we were treated to a view of the city against the backdrop of dusk - made it much clearer why it was such a successful fort. Cross country, through villages and back streets we made it to Mosta - bustling with late night Christmas shoppers on it's High Street and dominated by the miracle church. Why a miracle you ask? Well it was modelled on the Pantheon on Rome and has the third largest dome in Europe. But the main reason was in April 1942, with 300 odd people awaiting the evening service, a 500kg Luftwaffe bomb came through the dome - didn't hurt anyone and didn't explode. As if one miracle wasn't enough, another 50kg bomb bounced off the roof, again no-one was harmed. Having driven a fair old while today it was a long drive back to our side of the island, made enjoyable by the stunning Christmas lights in the towns along the way. Dinner. Book. Bed - were the remaining order for the day... Off to Birgu/Vittoriosa tomorrow. Napoleon found the 3 cities that face onto Valletta all a bit of a mouthful - so clumped them under "the 3 cities" and the name stuck (though Napoleon himself only lasted 6 days and the French only 2 years). More stories and photos Manana!