Days 484-487, 9-12 Oct '15, Recovery day from Larnaca day trip... immediately followed by massive, huge, crazy day trip to Nicosia/Lefkosia.

Saturday 10 October was (apparently) World Tourism Day. So well publicised that we only knew about it because of a leaflet we found at the Larnaca info centre. We'd planned a trip to Nicosia anyway (about 45 minutes from home), so with the addition of free walking tours/minibuses/red train - Saturday became the day for it.

Nicosia is inland from us, up in the hills. It's one of the longest continuously occupied towns in the world - dating back 5000 years. It is also the last divided capital city in the world. Having missed Berlin by 20+ years, this was a fascinating spot for us to visit. After parking we checked out one of only 3 gates in the 16th century Venetian walls - the Paphos Gate. Currently being restored, it was a great start to the day. Then we hoofed it across town to the Famagusta Gate - the big one. The walls themselves originally covered 5 kms, had 11 bastions and the 3 gates. The Famagusta gate was open and it was possible to see the entire 50 metre width of the walls via the tunnel that runs through them. Back in the day the gates were opened at sunrise and closed at sunset for people to make their way to and from the walled city through the tunnel. When the Venetians realised the Ottoman threat was real, they spent 3 years constructing the walls but never managed to get the moat finished and filled with water. Due to the construction of the tunnel - with guardrooms to either side, any marauders would have been easily cut down. According to our knowledgable walking tour guide, the Ottomans didn't bother and just climbed over. Welcome to 300 years of Ottoman rule. The walls and gates were fascinating. The walk itself took us into the ghost like suburbs near the green line - only now starting to be rejuvenated. The green line refers to the wax crayon that the British commander used to mark the map with the ceasefire line back in the '60s. There are now Cypriot National Guard youngsters from 18-21 looking after the Republic's side and 40,000 odd Turkish regulars on the other side. In between there are "not enough" UN supervisors. It's actually quite chilling as all through the town there are dead ends. Anywhere a road went north has been blocked off, sometimes with guard posts and opposing flags flying. Also lots of signs saying No Photographs... which I would normally respect with weapons around. But I was so busy taking photos sometimes, I didn't notice. Whoops. One of the things we learned on the tour which we wouldn't have understood on our own was the architecture of Nicosia. During the Ottoman period apparently there was little in the way of law and order. Defence was done at home essentially and no one would come running if your home was invaded and you were assaulted or robbed. The doors were thus solid wood, small, barred and easily defended. The windows were small, latticed or barred and easily defended. Even the balconies were enclosed, with only shutters to open to see out from. People were poor, over taxed and unhappy. However, when the British arrived in the mid to late 1800s, they instituted a police force, courts and law and order. The people were still poor, overtaxed and unhappy - but, they now felt safe. Architecture changed as a result. Doors became tall, wide and included glass for the first time. Windows became larger, were not barred or latticed and had glass. Balconies were "modern" - open affairs where you could sit outside and watch the world go by. Walking the old streets you can see Ottoman period houses cheek by jowl with British period houses. Utterly fascinating stuff once it was pointed out to us. We also learned how the Greek Orthodox church considered themselves the original Christians - they were indeed early adopters, with Christianity coming to Cyprus in 49AD. And how they split from what became the Catholic church. Interestingly enough, many of the Orthodox churches were destroyed by the Ottomans (most actually) but the Catholic churches survived. Not because they were any more liked by the Muslims - but because the ruling classes (essentially the French Lusignans) were Catholic - and it was thought more of an insult to turn those churches into mosques rather than raze them to the ground. One of the things we really noticed in some truly beautiful areas near the green lines was the lack of people. Sure, Ledra Street is the shopping mall street that leads to the pedestrian check point/passport control and there's crowds there... but most places are ghost towns. We knocked over one walking tour in the morning then headed to our lunch spot for the day - tripped over this great restaurant called Piatsa Gourounaki on TripAdvisor and pretty sure it's the best in Nicosia. We had a massive vegetarian platter (see album), some pork and chicken on a stick, wine, dessert, and liqueur for about €24. More than we normally spend - but such a treat and service here is fantastic. After lunch it was back across town for another walking tour in a different area, a visit to the craft centre for a look and then, with the cheek of Old Nick, we jumped on the final minibus tour of the day and they dropped us off at our parking area on the other side of town. Which is lucky, because our feet were about 2 steps away from falling off. The drive home rejuvenated us however and we took the pooches out for a sunset run. Fab day out in Nicosia. Can't see the issues Cyprus has getting sorted anytime soon - but if the city is ever united, it will be the most incredible walled city to visit. When we leave Cyprus we'll be heading to the north side for our flight to Turkey - can't wait to see how the other half live. Can't believe we'll have to visit an ATM for Turkish lira. Plans for the next 2 weeks? Day trip to Limassol (Templars' castle, Roman town of Kourion and possibly Aphrodite's birthplace) and a day trip up to the Troodos mountains (where, incredibly, they ski in winter. Not far and not well. But yes, skiing).