The following morning we were headed for the party island home to the legendary Full Moon Parties - Koh Phan-gan. An early start, and a half ten, one hour boat ride across to it's neighbouring smaller island, we arrived, sweaty and tired. Our hotel was located in the north-west of the island, known to be a small cove that was once inhabited by pirates. We had booked this before commencing our trip through recommendations, as full moon parties are a sell out event, and hotel rooms fill up, and prices quadruple. We thought we had made a sensible choice by staying a relative distance from the 'party' beach, thinking taxi's would be cheap and easy to find. We were wrong. The taxi ride there alone was over half an hour, and the roads were hellishly windy and bumpy, veering up and down throughout the mountainous terrain. We seemed to be driving through the middle of nothingness; no life, buildings or anything to give an insight into the life and heart of this island. The taxi pulled to a halt amid some buildings, and the driver vaguely pointed his finger down a rocky unsealed road. This is where our hotel was located. We forced ourselves up a steep incline, and down a steep descent, following a rocky, broken path, stepping on crumbling rocks, until finally we reached our destination.

Lucy and I had had high hopes of this hotel, as we had been swooning over the bargain we had gotten on the internet before my departure. Judging by the road, or should I more accurately say lack of road leading up to the hotel, our hopes were fading by the second. We walked onto the grounds, (all sandy), and into the reception. We had hoped Martin would have been able to crash in our room, for a small additional cost, we hadn't quite anticipated that they would demand twenty pounds a night off him, for putting what Martin described as a stretcher in our room, without he additional blanket that we had. It really was poor service, and the rooms were basic an small considering the price. However, as we strolled around, and looked into the beautiful swimming pool, and slightly further ahead onto the pristine deserted beach and gentle sea, we soon came to realise hat this hotel was more geared toward honey-mooning couples as opposed to backpackers out to party. This became even more apparent, when we spotted the villas, each equipped with an individual hot tub. Now that's a slice of paradise.

Martin declared that we should go out hat night, as he was missing the full moon party, and it was an unnecessary expense to change his flight. In agreement, we took a pick up truck from our hotel and to Haad Rin, also known as sunrise beach, and the location for the parties. The tuk tuk journey alone was memorable, and Lucy and I were quickly beginning to wonder whether we should change hotels. WE really were stuck in he middle of nowhere, with few facilities nearby, and we were quickly regretting our decision to stay so far away from the party, especially as Martin was leaving in a few days too. Although, I think his nerves and imagination were playing up on him as much as ours were, as we drove for what seemed like an eternity in an open pick up truck, up and down, round and round the forest covered roads. we didn't see another sign of life until we were almost there. To keep us amused and our spirits high, we had a sing song, beginning of course with Disney classics. It certainly did the trick anyway, as we belted out the songs for the trees and the driver to hear.

When we finally made it there, and alive, we made our way to the beach. Some people say the warm up parties, actually excel the full moon. The beach was light up with neon lights, and laser beams flashed an jetted across the sea and up into the sky. Different beats blasted from each bar, clashing with each other, all trying to be louder than the last. Fire dancers were everywhere, twizzling flames round their heads and necks. It was certainly a memorable night, but possibly one that would be better best forgotten.

The following day we slept, and nursed our heads, only getting up to eat. Martin declared he wanted pizza for his last evening meal, to which we obliged - it was however, the only restaurant in this tiny place.

Goodbyes are always hard, and this one was no exception, as I waved Martin off on his long journey home through blotted eyes. Nevertheless, it was full moon that night, and we would see if the hype was to be believed.

This time round taking the pick up ride to Haad Rin beach was completely different altogether. Around eight people were crammed on both sides of the benches, and as the journey continued, the driver picked up more and more people, even insisting that his wife and baby got out of the front seat, so that more party-goers could cram in for the journey. By the time we drew up towards the beach, people were literally hanging off the back of the truck. There was definitely no way we could fall out of this vehicle, as we were somehow wedged in.

Following the crowds, we made our way to the beach front. Already we could hear the music pumping, and for some, the party was already in full swing. The moon was shining brightly down on us, and the waves were lapping gently at the shoreline. Once again, we were entranced by the glowing lights, fire throwers and laser beams across the beach. The music was unbelievably loud, and each bar was blasting out various tunes, mostly trance with some funkier beats mixed in for good measure. It's like nothing I've experienced before. In low season, (now), a crowd of 10,000 usually gather, and there certainly was a crowd. In every direction people were feeling the music, drowning buckets, covered in UV paint, and dancing atop stages or in the sea. The atmosphere was electric. We were having an amazing time, but barely drank, due to our episode a few nights previous. I also didn't want to get too drunk, as earlier that morning I had sprained my ankle, having fallen over on the unsealed road, and all for a new tube of toothpaste. Dancing wasn't the easiest with a fat, bruised foot on sand, amongst ten thousand other drunk/drug induced party people. I was managing fine, until, the inevitable happened, and a girl jumped, not stood, but jumped on my already swollen foot. That was it; I retired to the floor to sit. We were hoping to see the sunrise in, but by around half four, I think we had both lost our spirit.

The tuk tuk ride back was another long one, and involved waiting around for over half an hour for the damned thing to fill up with fellow passengers. Arriving back just gone half six, we were in amidst the hues of the orangey glow as the sun had risen. But by this time, we barely cared; bed was far superior. We eventually hauled ourselves out of bed, to spend our last few hours by the beautiful pool, by the beautiful beach, and catch our last few rays of the day.

We had fully intended to travel straight back to Bangkok the following night, unfortunately, this was a necessity in order to get our passports. However, we hadn't quite been organised enough, and were too late to find out whether seats were available on the overnight bus. So, instead we decided to head back over to Samui, for one last beach day - and why ever not?

Boarding the eleven o clock boat back over to Samui we waved goodbye to Phan-gan. It was good to have experienced, but it needn't be repeated. Not yet anyway. The sea was choppy, and the spray from the sea cooled us down. We had made the decision to stay at the northern end of the island, as we would only be staying for one night and would be leaving for Bangkok the following day. On the bus, we had met a lone traveller, Kalen who has been in Thailand studying with his university from the states. He was headed in the same direction as us, and was too without a hotel. I'm certain our driver was out to scam us out of money, stating that it was impossible to get a room for three hundred baht. We argued but to little avail, and settled on a room for five hundred, later feeling slightly annoyed as we passed various hotels offering rates starting at three hundred! Never mind! There were very few tourists in this part of the island, but it was pretty nice to escape the hoards from the previous island.

It was a pleasant final few beach days, spent relaxing, eating, internetting and sleeping.

The journey back to Bangkok was slow to start, our pick up time constantly being extended by an additional half an hour, but when we finally made it onto the Government run night bus, we had few complaints, except perhaps for been too cold due to the freezing air con. It was only the ferry part of the trip, that was slightly confusing. there were no other tourists in sight, and all signs were in Thai, so we had little choice but to stick close to other people on our bus, without seeming stalker-ish. I have never had to get off a vehicle first before it goes on a ferry before, but in Thailand, it appears you do, and similarly to get off. Although, it certainly wasn't as safe walking through and amongst the moving traffic to get off the boat. Once again, there is little or no logic in this, but I've learnt not to question these things. The remainder of the journey was seeless, and we even got a snack onboard the bus, which claimed huge seats, which fully reclined. Not a bad way to travel, and once again, we found ourselves here in Bangkok.