This morning we checked out and headed for the tourist information office centre where we had been told our bus would be departing from. We had a look down the line of buses but as none of them had any destination information on, we popped into the tourist centre where we were told to take a seat alongside some other travellers. What we hadn't appreciated was that the bus wasn't originating from here and was already running late.

When the bus arrived it honked its horn, we all went outside, put our backpacks in the luggage compartment and jumped on. The lady from tourist information also checked our tickets on the bus before we were off heading for Kuala Lumpur.

The ride back down to sea level was incredibly twisty but the scenery made up for it. We had a VIP coach for some reason (certainly didn't book such luxury!) with acres of room both lengthways and widthways. It made a nice change from a cramped minivan.

About halfway through the journey we stopped for 20 minutes for a toilet break. We also had a chance to get some brunch - I went for some delicious Pau Ayam (steamed bun with chicken curry filling) while Kirsty tried to get a bowl of buttered sweet corn but the kiosk had just sold out.

Another uneventful two hours passed by before we reached Kuala Lumpur. We got off at the first stop we came to (Kuala Lumpur Sentral) which in hindsight may have not been our intended stop. Instead it was the start of the expressway railway thing to the airport. And there were no buses to Melaka. But the very helpful staff told us to head out one more station on the railway where we would be able to get a bus.

A half hour wait followed for the next train before a 7 minute journey took us to a huge bus station. Here we booked two bus tickets to Melaka for the bargain price of RM 16 for both of us.

What happened next was unbelievable. With less than 10 minutes to go before departure time Kirsty inexplicably decided she wanted some food from the local shop. Keeping my cool just hoping the bus would be late leaving (a fair bet in Asia), Kirsty proceeded to saunter around the shop without a care in the world before making her selection and joining the queue to pay. Once out the shop we rushed down the stairs, across the departures hall to gate number 9 where our bus was waiting.

The man at the gate was expecting us (as we were late) and we sheepishly stowed our backpacks in the bus. As we climbed the steps into the bus I heard a last-call announcement over the tannoy for us - I was so embarrassed. All because Kirsty wanted some chocolate!

In contrast to our previous bus, this bus was a lot older with an equally old man driving. But the old boy got us there driving in his bare feet most of the way. We arrived in busy traffic (it's becoming a theme in Malaysia) at Melaka Sentral, the correct stop this time.

Walking through the interstate buses area to the departures area for domestic buses, we hopped on board a local bus for our journey to Chinatown (1 RM) where most of the hostels are.

Getting off at Dutch Square we started looking for a room. It seems it is holiday time here and as such many of the hostels are fully booked. Since there aren't that many in the first place, the prices are higher too. Many other places were seemingly unstaffed or closed making our task even harder. A complete contrast to the rest of South East Asia where they can't get you through the door quick enough.

We found a Lonely Planet recommended hostel and spent a long time chatting with the owner and looking at the room. He was English and not pushy at all even allowing us to leave our big packs behind while we looked at other hostels. Easy to see why it was Lonely Planet recommended.

We did manage to find a slightly more suitable room around the corner and after sorting ourselves out we headed out to explore the area. We started at a second-hand bookshop where Kirsty managed to swap her book for a new one plus some extra money too. That's my girl!

Onto the ATM and a swift look around Dutch Square (we will come back a different day to look properly) and onto Jonker's Night Market in Chinatown. This was absolutely full with people, the market selling mainly trinkets and traditional food and drinks. The atmosphere was really good. This being Chinatown there were many locals doing karaoke of mixed standard (which they take very seriously no matter their ability).

With Kirsty not feeling great we headed into a Portuguese bar-cum-restaurant where she was able to have something safe - mixed vegetables and chips and I went for Portuguese-style fried noodles. All of it delicious!

Kirsty's condition got worse the following day. It started during the night with broken sleep and many trips to the bathroom. We went for breakfast to try and settle her stomach before attempting to begin our home-made walking tour starting in Chinatown. Unfortunately though an hour and a half was enough and we came back with Kirsty spending the rest of the day dozing.

In the evening we went out for dinner again more out of a feeling that we should keep Kirsty's energy intake up.

After a much more settled night we awoke to a sun-drenched morning. A quick cup of diuralite for the patient and we sauntered to breakfast at a different place to yesterday. Breakfast was delicious and I was pleased Kirsty managed something more substantial than toast.

I ordered a local coffee which arrived black but with a glass of condensed milk. Being a huge fan of condensed milk, I drank the coffee black and drank the milk separately. Yum! So good I ordered a second cup!

After leaving the café we walked down the road and visited 8 Heeren Street, an 18th Century Dutch-period shophouse. This house is now a restoration/conservation project to illustrate how life would have been back then. It was fascinating to gain this insight into a time past.

Following a quick sojourn back to the hostel for a brief respite we ventured out to nose around Little India. This area was a little disappointing - we were expecting a busy, lively area of criss-cross alleys full of music with smells of India wafting through the air much like Little India in Georgetown. Instead we got the odd shop, kiosk and café with a busy road disturbing any semblance of community.

We then spent some time at Stadthuys the massive red town hall and governors' residence in Dutch Square (or Town Square as it's also known) again from the Dutch period. It is believed to be the oldest Dutch building in the East.

Our Lonely Planet informs us that originally the colour of the building was white but when the British inherited it, they painted it red because the red stone used to build it would show under the whitewash and/or the heavy tropical rain splashed red soil up the white walls. By painting it red, they needn't keep having to re-paint it white. Ingenious!!

We headed for one of the large shopping centres in town Dataran Pahlawan, not ten minutes away from Town Square where despite spending half an hour or so it was obvious the exertions of the day had done for Kirsty.

We returned home to rest for the remainder of the afternoon, popping out for a late dinner. At least at dinner Kirsty's appetite finally seemed to be returning. Fingers crossed she will keep improving!

As we'd not done a lot all day, sleep did not come easy. Arising at ten to ten, we showered and went to find some breakfast. Kirsty was improving hour by hour but was still not yet at 100%.

Hoping to go to the same café as the previous morning (to enjoy more condensed milk!) we were surprised to find it shut. Carefully avoiding the traffic we started our search to find somewhere else suitable for breakfast.

In contrast to the rest of South East Asia, there are many more cars on the Malaysian roads and fewer scooters. A fellow backpacker explained this was due to the low price of petrol. Though I don't doubt this has an influence I'm also inclined to believe that a higher disposable income for individual Malaysians compared with other countries is another factor. Whatever the reasons, suffice it to say this is a very car-centric nation and as a result traffic can be horrendous.

We found a café a few doors down the same street, went in and discovered we were the only patrons. This is not unusual and I find myself wondering how these cafes make any money - I think the diversification into bars and guesthouses helps.

Ordering my Western breakfast I hadn't realised the mug of freshly-brewed local coffee included was refillable for free. Paying the bill I walked out with a smile on my face as I explained to Kirsty we had not been charged for the second mug of coffee I had. She may have been a little under the weather but she was still too sharp for me and the look I got said it all! OK, I'm an idiot!

By now it was early afternoon and with the sun on our backs we visited St Paul's Church on Bukit St Paul which afforded us a good view of the local area. Built by the Portuguese in 1521 overlooking the Straits of Melacca, the church was in a state of disrepair with no roof but housed a number of tombs for important Portuguese and Dutch.

We descended back down Bukit St Paul pausing for a quick photo at Porta de Santiago which was built in 1511 again by the Portuguese. This gateway is all that's left of the original fort known as A Famosa. The fort was almost completely destroyed by the Dutch who were only stopped by the British in 1810. What remains though is sadly very little.

To avoid the sun (and maybe to do some window shopping) we entered the shopping centre nearby. We spent a good couple of hours mooching around both in this shopping centre and a second one across the road called Mahkota Parade, the air-conditioning having the same effect as stepping into a refrigerator.

A slow walk followed heading back to Chinatown where we had a soft drink before returning to our room, Kirsty having had enough for the day.

A relaxing afternoon followed before heading out to have some dinner (always an anxious time with Kirsty's stomach). I opted for some local nasi goring spesial (fried rice with chicken skewers) whereas Kirsty chose pasta Neapolitan. Once again both delicious!

Repeating our trick of yesterday we returned to the café for breakfast. Again we were the only customers.

For the foodies amongst you I opted for a continental breakfast which consisted of muesli and milk, my own basket of toast, a croissant and fresh fruit and free refills on the local coffee as I think I mentioned earlier! All delicious and unsurprisingly I was stuffed afterwards. Extra delicious as I knew it was healthy! Kirsty sensibly played it safe and went for a bacon sandwich.

When we finished our meals we took the opportunity to ask the waitress/owner where to catch the bus to the bus station. Her response consisting of being told to get a taxi (!) didn't get us any further and we returned to the gorgeous yet intense sunshine.

We walked to the town square and after checking with the tourist police caught the first bus that came along town square which then proceeded on a short magical mystery tour with us and only one other passenger onboard. This culminated in a stop where the driver took the onboard rubbish bin and emptied it on the grass verge at the side of the road. Judging by the state of the verge, this had clearly been done many times before. Alarming that such a nation that is perceived as being progressive should have such an attitude to waste.

Anyway we eventually headed back in the right direction with a full complement of passengers to the bus station. Here we purchased our tickets to our next destination, Mersing at 8am tomorrow before heading to the highlight of the day, up and over the highway and into Tesco. An actual Tesco store! We replenished here our provisions of boring but necessary items such as toothpaste, handwash and pants.

Finding the experience thirsty work, we stopped at a nearby café for a coffee and a milkshake. Following this we pottered around the rest of the shopping centre and another one further down the road that Kirsty's keen eye had seen from the bus on the way here.

Returning to the bus station to wait for a bus (with absolutely no signage at all to help) we were approached by a man asking our destination. Thinking him a bit untrustworthy we answered his questions as curtly as possible. He seemed to take the hint and strolled on, only to turn around and point at a waiting bus, the bus we needed apparently. Guiltily we thanked him and clambered aboard.

People in Malaysia seem to be genuinely trying to help and, as their command of English is brilliant, they're more than willing to ask if they can help. After some of the places we've been , this attitude is a breath of fresh air but, initially at least, we remain on guard.

Back at the hostel we chilled out and did some research for the rest of Malaysia having to jig a few things around following Kirsty's sickness.

At around 7 and after asking our host where it was, we did a dry-run walk to the bus stop from where we need to catch the bus early the next morning. With the temperature at a more comfortable level we walked back across town to one of the two local shopping centres.

At the shopping centre, we bought a new guidebook on Indonesia (breaking the bank in the process but needs must!) Paying at the counter we apparently won a free gift. Not understanding why we pluckily span the gift wheel (think wheel of fortune) much to our embarrassment (we only came in to buy a book!) and the consternation of much of the rest of the queue.

Landing on a prize that had already been taken we had to spin again much to the obvious excitement of the cashier. Second time around we won a local membership somewhere - no good to us - so we were allowed to spin again. Our prize? An A4 pad of paper! The whole thing slightly surreal and I'm sure the prize was only proffered in order to get rid of us!

Pizza in the shopping centre for dinner followed before returning to pack, our prize already donated to our host's son for his schoolwork.

Getting up at 6am after a poor night's sleep (it's just too hot and we had very little drinking water) was no easy feat. We showered and dressed in the relative pre-dawn darkness before sharing an emotional goodbye to our hosts and wandering the 15 minutes or so to the bus stop.

We didn't have to wait too long for a bus to arrive. One of the passengers had obviously seen our bags and guessing our destination gesticulated to us that we should get on.

We disembarked at the bus station and with a 30 minute wait ahead we bought some water and local food to serve as breakfast on the bus and sat and waited in front of the bus park.