The bus was perfectly adequate and four hours later after a 30 minute stop at some "rural" toilets we arrived in Kuantan, the last big city before our stop.

Our Lonely Planet had informed us that there was no bus stop at Cherating and the bus just stopped on the main road. We would have to make our own way down to the main strip. It was an anxious 45 minute journey hoping we wouldn't be forgotten and that the driver would stop.

Our anxieties were ill-conceived as the bus pulled over at the correct place, the driver gave us a signal and the only two Westerners left the bus, grabbed our bags and watched as the bus drove off. Two tourists in the middle of nowhere, no touts, no transport and just with wild goats roaming 30 yards to our left. It was all a bit surreal.

We hitched our packs onto our backs and wandered down into the village main street. It was a quiet little place and finding a room proved a problem. We felt unwelcome by the majority of the people and like the rest of Malaysia so far, the rooms on offer did not represent good value. With tempers fraying we settled on an expensive room for one night.

Having looked around the rest of the place, it was clear it was not really for tourists with only one tour operator and little of anything else open. As we walked further down the main street it became clear where all the locals were congregated.

In the village car park for no obvious reason, locals were displaying their power sliding skills in front of an impressively large and appreciative audience! Not what you expect from such a sleepy seaside place.

Talking it over, we decided one night would be enough and, after returning to the room and viewing the beach, we went to sort out a bus ticket and something to eat. The tour operator said he would be able to give us an answer within the hour so we sat down at a local café for some food.

We ordered mixed fried rice (chicken, beef and seafood) and Kirsty chose fried vermicelli with chicken. To drink we had apple juice and lychee juice. All delicious once again, probably our favourite thing about Malaysia is the food.

Just after finishing we experienced a power cut and, although they were quick to hand out candles we decided we should head back, ignoring the chance to go back to the tour operator under the circumstances.

Back in the room with a candle given to us by the hotel staff we busied ourselves until the power unexpectedly came back on. Seeing this as our chance to get our bus ticket sorted we returned to the tour operator and got a bus for 12pm the following day before going back to the room.

On entering the room unfortunately we brought an unwanted guest in the form of a sand beetle or something similar in with us. Despite desperately trying to escape he fell as victim number 1 to Kirsty's new pink flip flops, a person's best weapon against bugs.

After a deliciously exuberant night's sleep in an air-conditioned room we awoke nice and refreshed, ready for our onward journey. As we were getting ready there was a knock at the door from our tour operator who had come to tell us the bus would now be leaving at 1pm but he would be happy to drive us to the bus stop.

We made arrangements to meet later and then took one last stroll down the main street. Kirsty exchanged her book and we ducked out of the sun to a nearby café for breakfast. We had nasi goreng kampung (village fried rice) with keropok (prawn cracker) and Kirsty had French toast. The food once again was delicious.

Afterwards we returned to our hotel to wait for our lift. At the allotted time a beat-up car arrived and we piled in with our bags. True to his word the man dropped us free of charge at the bus stop on the main road, then called the bus company, told us the bus was running late and left us to it.

Fifteen minutes later a bus arrived, pulled over and the two of us got safely onboard heading for Kuala Terengganu.