Panicale:
It's definitely "autumn" looking, my, how the landscape has changed in just over three weeks we have been here. The trees that were tinged with yellow, orange, are now more intense and with even the gentlest breeze the leaves are loosing their grip and giving in to the loss of energy needed to "hold on"....winter will be victorious!
We are realising that one of the reasons we love Panicale and this region of Umbria is the similarity in weather to Goulburn. Those enticing foggy mornings and early evenings when the fog just rolls in and hugs the valleys around the hilltop, reducing visibility for just metres is so like "home" where from the Deanery you barely can make out the office and our Cathedral is hidden, the beautiful home on the corner has its turret hidden so as not to be "showy". The landscape itself differs and that is the other "love". The city streets and houses, the open countryside of home make way for "tighter" living apartments, older architecture and olive grove countryside. Both are beautiful, the one shared factor is the weather and the unmistakable knowledge of knowing what season you are in. We feel safe and happy and comfortable in both. Language much easier at home obviously but how I would love to be able to fluently speak Italian! Of course, home, has the pull of the above, for their are our family, friends and our Cathedral and, dare I forget beloved Olly.
Visits in last week:
We have solved the "postage" issues in Italy! Having failed to send a box back home from local post office just down from Panical in little centre of Machie (as advised by Katia), we just couldn't get passed the hurdle of " Codice Fiscale, (Italian citizen card), no little box for provision of "tourist" exists so after almost two hours, and to the relief of the ever-trying to oblige, assistant, we left with our box and she hit "cancel" on her computer!!!
Not giving up though, whilst we were in Orvieto we passed a business called MBE (Mailing Boxes Etc)....like FedEx, parcel delivery. Apparently it is very big in Europe and the very pleasant and co-operative Manager assured us they send parcels worldwide all the time. Now with added confidence and the necessity to rid ourselves of excess luggage, we put all our "send home" items in my small carry-on suitcase and we drove back to Orvieto two days later (by the direct A1 route this time), and even took the brave option of driving right up to the top car park. This meant no funicular but ha, we were on a mission!! It was 3.20pm when we arrive outside MBE office, they were closed however re-opening 3.30pm so we didn't have a long wait.
Orvieto is strangely eerie when most shops are closed (between 1-4pm). Even the restaurants were closed. In a nearby restaurant, where on our previous visit was bustling with people eating and drinking and using mobile phones of course, today the sign on the door read: "this shop is open if and when you don't find it shut". Such Italian humour, I said to Phillip, an Australian could have posted this sign, don't you think??
That's probably another similarity to us, their humour, they are always laughing, if only I could understand fully, without the strain of asking P to translate!! I know from previous experience that when you have to translate almost all the time, you actually get very sick of it! Thankfully our "friends" in Panicale have better English skills than MY Italian!! Anyway, now MBE is open, the Manager welcomed us warmly and asked his assistant to assemble a flat-pack carton, which he did with haste and efficiency. The Manager only wanted to know, is there any liquor or food? That will prohibit sending. Once negative response, we proceeded to pack all the items in the box, the "bubble-wrapped" pieces the Manager placed in with care and assured us the box would be labelled "fragile". Paperwork, a walk in the park.....same name for sender/receiver, yes??? Yes, just fill in your address and state (Queensland, Victoria)? Well, now I was very impressed, NSW actually....."we send parcels to Australia all the time, I know your states"! Very impressed. He took a copy of Phil's passport, weighed the box, asked if we wanted insurance.....asked if we wanted "express-3 days", "standard-10days",.?... standard is fine, how much insurance €500-€700 all the same to me.? ...we opted for €700....total €150 posting and insurance and 10 day delivery. So, so easy. We are now spreading the word.....My tip....parcels out of Italy specifically, but Europe all over apparently, use MBE.!! They have offices in Milan and Paris (not Lyon) but ha, one very happy traveller now!
Thursday 9 October .... Città della Pieve ... lovely lunch!
Our favourite restaurant in this (well Citta, means city/town) I felt it was more large village but perhaps we didn't explore widely enough (on all three visits). It's only 20 minutes by car. The restaurant is in the basement (once grainery), such atmosphere even though we were the only diners. We were welcomed and the meal was just fantastic. It's specialty is "pork", so we shared a risotto in cheese sauce, superb, before we both had pork with roast vegetables. The pork was in a sauce of olive oil but thickened (maybe cornflour?), the taste was devine and we really enjoyed the experience. Sure with company on adjoining tables would have heightened the enjoyment but the chef really went all out for just the two of us!
He told us the same repeated story of a very busy extended summer season. They do not close and although today is very quiet, December will be very busy. They open for Christmas and right through January/February months when almost everything else is closed. I can only summise the "locals" support this fantastic restaurant.
Friday 10 October 2017
Last minute decision that perhaps Phillip may not be sufficiently warm for Milan, Lyon and Paris, having only packed a light wind-jacket we drove to a "convenience" store, large premises, selling "everything". Kitchen fitouts, makeup, shoes, entertaining stuff, and clothes. We found a great coat, with hood so I was very relieved that now he would be adequately protected from the low temperatures we have been watching in all these places. We both packed gloves, beanies, scarfs, socks and thermal longings/tops so sub-zero temperatures in St.Moritz won't daunt these hearty travellers! Since the coat was only €33 our plan is to leave it in Paris if we can't fit it in and have no further need for it. Versatility in travel!

Next week:
We will spend this weekend quietly just "being" here and in the piazza more. Our days are numbered now.

Next Tuesday I have an appointment at the local hairdressers. From my last visit I know it will be the "quietest" two hours in a ladies hairdresser!!! The language barrier prevents even the simplest conversation. I will converse the essential instructions by way of my i-pad "translator", a much needed colour, definitely no cut needed. I knew my "ten week" hair cut before I left would hold me in good stead!
While I'm "covering greys", Phil is going to take the car and give it a much needed wash (nearby car wash), and refuel ready for Wednesday departure and returning the car to Avis, then onward to Florence, and Milan, Lyon,Paris. A brief two night stop-over in Hong Kong and then home!

Another blog I'm sure as Milan holds visitation to sighting "Last Supper" and train trip to St.Moritz and heavy snow, according to forecast!!

Love to you all, from both of us.