21 km walk today forecast rain late morning gradient steep at times in places a mix of dirt,gravel,stoney and tarmac.
Leaving Portamarin was a tad sad as it was so beautiful we felt like royalty. It boasted a pretty plaza with the Church of San Juan at its centre, window planter boxes and cafe con leche, meeting up with new friends.
It was also interesting to note that Potomarin is a new town; as the original town is now under water as a result of the river being damed. Although new it has been constructed to capture old world charm. The church that sits at the centre of the plaza would presumably have been on the hillside above the old town with the new town constructed around it. One thing of interest inside the church was the use of electric candles throughout; totally out of place in a church so old.
Our camino today as i began to describe took us onto country roads and rural farming communities passing through beautiful oak forests and landscape that reminded us of New Zealand including pine forests and gorse.
Our pace was much quicker, we didnt take as many photos and we reached Casa Rectoral Lestedo quite quickly. Oh my goodness we thought we were going to be roughing it and staying in an albergue with just the basics. Saw the population was 30... But oh no we opened the large wooden gate and stepped into the court yard. It was huge. Rang the bell and were welcomed with open arms and a very warm smile. Our host even carried our largest bag up the stairs. We entered our room - named - Alacena (no numbers here!) It is massive and the view from our wooden shutters stretches for miles. Wooden ceilings with rafters fastened proudly showing the grain and beauty of the rafters. Chandelier prettily hanging daintily from the strong frame.
Rested, we added layers as we ventured outside to find refreshments. Didn't need to go far before we discovered a cafe/bar/restaurant (part of another alberque) with a warm glowing fire, the hole place area we were in, no more than the average dining room in size. Very cosy!
Current temperature 12degrees. My con leche was not nearly as satisfying as my previous experiences. Steve enjoyed his solo (espresso). Nice not to have to hang our backpacks onto our tender shoulders.
Our friendly and most informative host (his english is quite good) had prepared a fabulous meal upon our return. Fresh cucumber, sliced quartered tomato, and olives drizzled with olive oil and a local style balsamic vinegar dotted with thinly sliced onion sprinkled with ground dill we are converted. Never before have we had something so simple turned into a kaleidoscope of taste sensations.
The main course of chicken (cooked in beer!), rice 'castle' and fried apple only added to the joy to which our taste buds had already been treated. All of this washed down with the obligatory 'bottle' of red wine (no such thing as getting just one glass). Dessert was a scoop of the richest chocolate ice-cream, liberally infused with chocolate shavings (not chips) and a 'shot glass' of Muscatel (sweet, dessert wine). Coffee was served to end the best dining experience we have ever had, and all in a small rural hamlet in northern Spain, Lestedo; population 30!!
Casa Rectoral Lestado, you have got to come here!!!