<!-- @page { size: 8.5in 11in; margin: 0.79in } P { margin-bottom: 0.08in } -->

The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu FAQs

I'm writing this in retrospect to approximately two months (10th February 2009, in Las Lajas Panama) after completing the Inca trail, I've left blogging about this experience so long as I wanted time to really examine my thoughts on the trek rather than coming straight out with a response that has a lot of negativity. I think Machu Picchu and indeed the entire Inca trail suffer from being build up so much by everyone who's been there and wants to go there. Tell almost anyone with an interest in travel that you've been to Peru and invariably the first question they ask you is "Did you do the Inca trail?" This is usually followed with either comments on shared experiences or a flurry of questions on what it was like, as they hope to do it one day.

Unfortunately due to its fame and accessability many people who walk it as the only trek they have ever done and ever will do. From this viewpoint I can see the awe in which people hold the trail. My viewpoint is a lot different. I'vebeen hiking seriously for years now and I love it, I've seen some amazing places and had some great experiences in the wilderness....included in this I've hiked into high altitude many times and even into extreme altitude - I don't take this for granted as I have had a bout of sever AMS (of the cerebral variety!) in Africa. I've also been privilaged to spend the six-months prior to the Inca trail travelling and doing a great deal of hiking in some of the most spectacular (and most not over crowded) places in the Americas. My view of the Inca trail refects these experiences and the fact the hype surrounding it built up my expectations to a level that was always going to be difficult for it to meet.

As I've alluded to earlier just about every traveller I meet who is heading to Machu Picchu invariably asks a trail vetern a gazillion questions, hence I've decided that my response to the trail in this blog will be in a question and answer format of the FAQs.

Q. Was it hard/would I make it?

A. My honest opinion was that it wasn't particularly hard. When I've climbing mountains and it gets physically hard I start to sing (or recite a stupid mantra) to myself.....this didn't happen on the entire trail.

Yes, on day two you ascent over Dead Woman's pass at 4,200m, but its a very even grade to get to the pass, the track is in good condition and you haven't walked that far to get there (from the first night's camp). I think the decent after Dead Woman's was the hardest bit on the legs, but if you don't have knee problems this shouldn't be a problem.

Altitude shouldn't be too bad as you've generally spent a good few days before the trail either coming in from Cusco (3,400m) or Puno/Titicaca (4,000m). The Altiplano is high so those red blood cells should be up there by the time you hit the trail! On top if this go at a steady pace and drink coca tea and chew coca leaves.

As long as you're of reasonable fitness and can walk (with a light pack 5-7kg) for a day it shouldn't worry you. My friend Katie ame down with the bug that knocked me out for a week on the first day of the trail. She had fever and diharrarh on the second day and she made it over the two passes - for her the trail was tough but she soldiered on!

Q. Was the scenery amazing?

A. Yep, the scenery is amazing. Its not just about Machu Picchu the road there is a wonder considering where it was built. You're always contouring green jungle lined mountains looking out at other mountains an other Inca ruins, many of which (in my opinion) are just as amazing as Machu Picchu.

Q. Should I just catch the train to Machu Picchu?

A. If your going there walk the trail.....the train you miss a lot and Michu Picchu won't be as fun as you'll probably have some ill effects of altitude. AsI said in the previous answer the journey is as amazing if not more so. If you are going to make the effort to go there then make the effort to get some fitness and do the walk.

Q. What was the weather like?

A. Surprise, surprise it rains and it can get cold. I think for three of the four days we were on the trail it rained. The classic was when a couple of aussie girls I was talking to in Davi last week were shocked at the fact that it could rain on the Inca trail! The cloud was ever present, however as we listed to our guide and showed patience we got to see the views over Machu Picchu itself as we sat and waited for the cloud to lift.......many people that day didn't wait and saw nothing!

Q. What were the highlights?

A. The single best bit for me was limbing Huayna Pichuand the view you got from up there. Its not the postcard classic view of Machu Picchu (Huayna Picchu) is the pointy mountain in the backround of this) but you see the shape of the city below really is a condor. I was especially stoked when I started back down and I saw a bird (I thought it was a young condor but actually only a falcon) surfing the thermals off the side of the peak......it was awe-inspiring. Sadly I was the only one from my group that did the extra climb which was sad as I truly believe they missed out.

As mentioned earlier the scenery and other ruins on the trail were a highlights......that part of the Andes are so inspiring and majestic, even if they are not denuded (which is the way I like my mountains!). The other highlights was seeing Machu Picchu for the first time when the cloud lifted near the Sun gate.

..........I almost forgot, we stopped at a little store about an hour before Dead Woman's pass. Robin and Anetta the Kiwi's went to go to the toilet as there was an upscale facility there. As Anetta walked across the medow a ram left the sheep he was tending and tried to butt her....shortly after Robin attempted the same walk and got butted twice (fortunately he wasn't hurt). Who say's sheep aren't smart, the ram obiviously sensed the danger in the Kiwi's being so near the flock! I couldn't stop laughing for about 10 minutes.

Q. What were the lowlight?

A. The crowds on the trail and at Machu Pichu. I was especially frustrated with the number of discourteous people on the trail (particularly slow people who wouldn't let you past!). Also as always people with sticks/hiking poles who lived in their own world and swung their stick around as they walked not considering the people behing/next to them. This was particularly bad on the last day of walking treking to the sun gate.

Having to wait in a long line at 6am on the final morning to be allowed on the trail to the sungate and Machu Pichu.

Not getting the ram chasing the Kiwi's on video.......

Q. What would you recommend to someone thinking of doing it?

A. You can't do the trail on your own, the Peruvian government decreed you must have a guide. I rarely do this but I do recommend Intrepid Travel (the Aussie based company who I did it with) as they were ecellent, good guides, good tents and the food was plentiful and of a really high quality (they had two chief's for a group of 16-people!).

My usual outdoor moto is be overprepared. Here is a list of what I recommend ;

1. Train a bit before hand - walk with a 5kg pack for an hour a day or even do some longer day hikes, it will make the eperience more enjoyable.

2. Decent shoes......I don't believe hiking boots are necessary but if you have sneakers make sure that they are waterproof (if you don't want wet feet) and decent grip - if it rains the stones in the road are very slippery. My preference is vibram soles.

3. The guides recommend a poncho to keep you and your bag dry. If you want cheap OK this may work but at the end of the day a platic poncho vapour locks, you're walking up and down hills in a humid environment.......propper breathable waterproofs are more confortable.

4. If you think you may need poles then think trekking poles, at least you can put them on your pack when your not using them.......I have to say its scary the number of people I saw who believed that they needed poles for every step of the way. Also if your going to use trekking poles buy a soft rubber stopper for the end.....you could see the damage on the trail from the spiked ends of poles (I believe this is now compulory).

5. Buy a silly hat in Cusco to keep your head warm.....you will appreciate this on cold nights!

Q. Is there anything else I need to know?

A. Yes as soon as you get to Machu Picchu go put your name down to climb Hauayana Picchu as they number are limited to 400 per day. It is worth it and unfortunately many of the people who come up in the train manage to take up the places. If you're going to do the walk then it would be a shame to miss the last bit!!

In the end I did enjoy the experience of the Inca trail and I am glad that I did it. My main advice for anyone heading there is don't build it up too much. Go there and enjoy it for what it is.