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Blisters, injuries, aches and pains. Heat, cold, wind and sideways rains. All are possible memories I could use to express the 8 day epic patagonia trek we have completed. However, more positively speaking, although certainly a hard slog, it goes down as one truely amazing adventure!
The O circuit of the Torres Del Paine national park in southern Patagonia is an 8-10 day sub alpine trek that covers 113km. The trail circumnavigates around the park's grande mountainous peaks, pristine lakes, forest and glaciers.
It was absolutely amazing scenery - a bit like new Zealand's southern alps on steroids! We indeed had an awesome experience and great time however I am left with a mix of opinions.
As the park is possibly one of the most ruggedly beautiful places in the planet, it has the ability to attract people - hordes of them. It is a playground for adventurers, nature lovers, climbers, alpinist and the everyday tourist wanting a piece of the pie - a view of the impressive natural wonders.
Although we met some great people on the similar path, often people can lead to some minor annoyances. People in general are kind of disgusting and can be inconsiderate a******s (often American or Germans). Oftentimes we saw meters off the track or outside camp boundaries biodegrading s*** with accompanying extras. People up late being loud, people up early, being loud.
Another quarm I had was how the park has been seemingly exploited it natural beauty in to a money making machine. The trek totalled approximately $110 each just for entrance and camping!
Basically the park is not a place to go for tranquility of solitude however, it is popular for a reason, it is fantastic.
With that little rant over here's a bit of a breakdown of trek
Upon arriving at midday on day one, we decided a short day was in order, to break into it. Going against the traditional plan for the route, we back tracked up into the mountain range to one of the major attractions, the towers or torres. It is recommended to view these at sunrise, as there is an amazing pinkish orange hue upon the granite massifs, so we decided to head right up the following morning. Although some cloud was about and we didn't gain the glowing effect, It was still an amazing way to experience towers as their ominous mass slowly appeared from the night sky.
The extra pack-free hour up and down that morning took its toll for day two. At 9.30 we set off for a a big day, heading back out the way we had come up day one. After three hours, heavy packs were starting to fatigue usand morale was low so we had lunch, knowing that there was still 12km to go that day. After a hard 23km slog on our reasonably unconditioned bodies, we arrived in camp. An overpriced and overcrowded site, sucking the lifeblood out of travellers at about $20 per person. Rant over
Day three did not start so well as little Mr Fox had free roam of our food in the night. The major damage was our prized possession, our cheese. We had half a kg of it for our wraps. Looks like Fox will be on the menu soon... I also had a wee cooking spill and a frozen gas canister. It was definitely another hard day and is the longest of the planned route. 19km on foot on the back of day two really pushed our limits. Our morale was kept high with chocolate and beautiful scenery - we approached and passed lakes with snow capped mountains and the grande southern patogonia ice field in the background. Our arrival to at refugio d*** on after 6 hours was well awaited. Some delicioso pasta for dinner went down a treat.
Day 4 was a well deserved half day, only cover 12km but a 400m or so climb. We headed up a valley to camp on route for the biggest challenge - the upcoming pass. It was a beatiful walk. As altitude rose, we progressively gained greater views of the setting we had camped under. Beatiful lake, glacier, mountain combo. Reminded me of the classic mitre peak scene.
Day 5 was one of mixed emotion. The ominous 1230m John gardener pass provided what was promise, an exposed and adventurous crossing! I have never experience winds like it, I would never had though it could blow so fast! As we progressed out of the bush line the gists started really blowing and the excitement was building. After an hours trudging up against the strengthening winds, and seeing others turn back and some blown off their feet, we had reached the summit. Wind was at least 100km/h, and hail felt like small needles but it was fantastic! We were presented with and ocean of ice. Glacier grey 5km across fading into more ice - the southern Patagonian ice field. The conditions and a persisting migraine made for the need now to get down off the tops to camp. What ended up being the worst migraine of my life, as I had to push through causing multiple relapses, resulted in not a very pleasant end to the day.
Day 6 was a beautiful hike out along the glacier and Lago grey. The sky was clear and sun shining. Our packs were foodless and and we seemed to have found an extra battery. Stamina has built well. A 6 hour day was quite easy. We met our camp at the parks main refugio, paine grande with views of cerro paine and the cathedral massifs, it was a perfect setting for camp. The day was finished with a restaurant dinner and red wine with some fellow "curcuiters"
Final day went against plan of 16k 5 hour walk, we couldn't be bothered so we took the catamaran ferry, which was a great way to finish off the trek!
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