Feeling alive: An intrepid travel adventure.
A bit of context:
Futuro Parque Patagonia provided the platform for our latest trekking epic. The park is a recent conservation development by Conservacion Patagonia, headed by Kris and Doug Tompkins - owners of North face and Patagonia clothing brands. In 2004, some 15 million was spent purchasing estancia chacabuco, a sheep and cattle ranch in the aysen region of Chile, for the previous 90 years. The land totalled approximately 200,000 km2 and consists of large valleys, highlands, lagoons, wetlands, and leading to this, a large area of undulated dry land.
This land, bridges the gap between two neighbouring two national reserves, Tamango to the south and and Jeneimeni in the north, which are both unique and equally fantastic. These three areas combined provides perfect habitats for wildlife and biodiversity. Currently concentrations of guanaco, (an Andean variation of alpacas) flamingo, puma, and endangered huemel deer are amongst the highest in all of patagonia.
With a goal of developing a future Parque Nacional Patagonia which encompasses all three park areas,( to be donated back to the state) there is much work going on. Over the last 10 years, Work has consisted of complete removal of farm fencing, huemel and puma tracking and research, building camping facilities and trails, and planting endemic plants etc. Volunteer placements have been a big part of this effort and it seem, very effective. Sadly however, placements were full so our offer to lend a hand was denied.
After experiencing first hand, I beleive it is fair to say that if the project is successful,and some further infrastructure is developed, it could challenge other Patagonian parks for the most awe inspiring. This is not an easy feat, with the likes Torres del Paine, Los glacieres and Bernard o'higgins. It will have everything! Wildlife, mountains with seemingly easy access alpine and rock climbing, amazing rock formations, ancient cave paintings, and lakes and rivers for various Watersport. Of all that I have experienced so far, Park Jeinemeni on its own, has been the most impressive wild landscape in all Patagonia. With desirable geographic placement, access would also be relatively easily. Chile Chico to the north, Cochrane to the south, paso roballos (a border crossing to Argentina) to the east and the famous Carraterra Austral to the west.
Our story:
Upon researching the limited resources (no toposmaps.com here), an idea was born to somehow trek across the three park areas. We wanted to pass through from the town of Cochrane to Chile Chico, an estimated 150 kms. This would follow trails and navigate off track through the Tamango, Valle chacabuco and Jeinemeni parks. It was a exciting plan however, the combination of being held up in previous towns for days at a time and limited resources; a reasonably brief email describing the crossing and a 2 dimensional map (later realising it to have many mistakes), it was decided a change was necessary. Providing adventure nonetheless...
The 3 of us; Jimmy, a Belgian living in Argentina, who writes a travel guide, Savannah and I, started off hitch hiking the Carraterra from Cochrane toward estancia chacabuco. There is very limited public transport here, as it is now effectively low season. After a few hours two CONAF (Chile's answer to Nzl's DOC) officers on their way to Coyhaique, gave us a ride to the road entrance. From here it was still 13km odd to the main parque headquarters and campsites. So we set of with heavy packs and fresh legs. 20minutes later, the carabineros (police) drove up the dusty road. They asked us where we were headed and offered us a lift. With only one seat spare inside, we gained a great safari-like view of the park from the back of the police ute. Making sure to hold on tight with one hand, and in the other, document the herds of guanacos roaming their territory with the Gopro.
The plan had evolved to a two parque crossing, following the ranches old horseback trails, which had been developed into a halfway decent walking trail.
We arrived at the park office who explained the route, and showed us on another 'okay'map - our first mistake not to fork out the $15 to purchase. She stated that the trail was easy to follow and that people have completed it in the past, leading us into a false sense of security. Probably should of taken a picture of that map! We soon realise that she most probably had not actually walked it, or at least not the full trail.
After camping at the base, another dusty road was asking for a 37km slog to reach the start of the trail, time and food wasn't unlimited so we luckily gained another "guided tour" through the valley, Passing many of the valleys highlights, including Laguna flamingo and once again many guanacos.
For three days we navigated the trails, crossed rivers, and climbed ridges and passes in the Aviles valley and jeinemeni. We camped on the rivers and had clear skies night and day - I have never seen so many stars.
We were privileged enough to witness the true humbling nature of alpine patagonia. Superbly rugged mountain peaks stood above grand multicoloured cliffs, chalky green and navy blue lakes, and picturesque valleys. The wildlife also graced us with their prescence from time to time. Although sadly not yet to see the puma. Seeing an Andean condor glide passed 5ms from us, the most spectacular, with its 3m wingspan. The wind and rains also came on the final day, not letting us get away to easy.
The adventure was heightened as to the 2d map often deceived us with many mistakes. Upon reaching jeinemeni, the trail disappeared and we followed the rocky bed of the valley. We understood to follow small rockpiles North along the river. They were infrequent and hard the spot and the valley was at time 100m wide, therefore it was hard to not second guess ourselves. Trail direction on the map was oftentimes incorrect, and there were features, like roads, not evident when passing through or later asking park rangers. All part of an adventure.
One of the best things for me was the solitude. Although there were signs of other people on the trail and in a hut register, we saw only 2 other day hikers in the 4 day crossing. We were informed that jeinemeni only has 3000 visitors per year (2500 Dec - Jan) , and prior to last year when a bridge was built increasing access for normal cars, only 400.
As food stocks were low, we could not really afford to hike the 60km dirt road.We finished the trek luckily finding a ride to Chile Chico.
A truely amazing place to explore and now better than ever before the hordes come. climbers and alpinists, many first ascents on offer also - it is possible to name a peak, scribe your name in history. I look forward to watching the progress and hope to see its successful transformation into a national park and, possibly return someday.
I bit on the side:
Prior to Cochrane, I celebrated my 24th birthday stuck in a small lakeside town with no money, rain and wind - lots of it. It was great however, as we had a good little crew I named the "nomadic village" who supplied chocolate and wine to lift the spirits.
Photos to come.