The drive along the west coast was very scenic. We passed beautiful lakes and more rapids. We also sopped at a beach that was full of stones and driftwood that travellers had stacked and wrote on.Using my liquid eye-liner we left our message. It was an awesome place. Despite zero petrol in the tank we managed to roll into Fox Glacier town. It was a true miracle. Si had to have complete silence for the last part of the drive as he was so worried. We both had imagined along walk with a billycan. I shamefully admit that its the second time that it has happened! We filled up then drove the crazy winding road to Franz Josef. We booked onto a tour at the Franz Josef guide shop. There was only one space left for the following day so we had to book on for the day after that. We made our way to the DOC campsite (after a few searches for free camping and nearly getting stuck in the mud). We managed to sneak into a campsite fora free hot shower - Simon was constantly paranoid about being caught! After we drove back up the crazy road to Fox Glacier (when we say crazy - one bend was meant to be taken at 15km!) We drove to lake Mattheson which is known for its great reflections of Mount Cook. Sadly by the time we arrived a cloud had formed cutting off he snowy peak out of the view. The lake was perfectly still and the reflections of visible trees and lower parts of the mountain were awesome. In the afternoon we went back to the DOC with beer, chilled out and played games. We were joined by two lads and we spent the evening with them - speaking slowly. Early the next morning we made our way to the guide place and collected our coats, trousers, socks, boots, crampons, hats and gloves before boarding the bus. We trekked up to the bottom of where the glacier began and then crossed the 'no public access' barrier. We hiked up a huge steep mound of gravel and rocks before putting on our crampons. We were told how to walk with them on our feet (1-stamp feet down hard, 2-step with feet straight 3-lift legs high 4-keep legs apart). We finally made our way onto the ice. At first it was really easy. Our guide walked up front with his axe and we all followed in a straight line. We made our way up to see some ice caves that had naturally formed. We had to watch our step so we didn't step into the water. To get into the first cave we had to crouch but the second cave was huge and we could stand inside it. We walked back up and passed endless crevasses. Some were only tiny but others had big drops. We walked through another cave and up the other side before reaching the penguin slide where you go head first through a tunnel. Si did it along with a few others, but the bumps, moans and groans I heard as people went throughput me off! As we got higher we could see how uneven the ice was. We walked through tight gaps and up steps that had been cut into the ice. At one point our guide found a tiny gap and chopped away at it. It was tiny and I have no idea how I got through! The lads used the rope to climb up and over it. On the second tight squeeze we had to do an Egyptian walk through it (basically walking completely sideways). I couldn't get up the set sideways and every time I tried my hip got stuck so I had to call Si back to help pull me through! We made our way through more tight gaps and small holes before going to the last cave. We had to climb down carefully and walk into the cave and then climb up and out the other side using ropes. Luckily I only hurt myself once by banging my head on a big block of ice. ( I clearly didn't have Hayleys clumsy curse with me). The ice was amazing. It was so massive! Despite appearances from the ground the surface was very uneven and there was lots to explore. We had plenty of waterproofs on and when we were walking we didn't feel cold once. After a hot shower and a Speights feast we felt great. The next day I ached so so much! Simon was completely fine and took pleasure laughing at the pain I experience in every step I took. We drove Arthurs Pass which took us overland back to the east coast. The drive was very steep and we were both surprised that our van didn't start rolling backwards! I think we were overtaken by every vehicle we saw (including a milk cart - only joking!) We slept at another DOC and Si made his last campfire. He swore it was his last as everything we owned smelt of fire and his shoes were filthy black!