Samosir island is home to the indigenous Batak tribe, they have their own language and their religion is a fusion of their original animism and Christianity - having succumbed to the missionaries. Up until the early 1800s they still practised ritual cannibalism. Today we arose early (8am) to a stunning clear blue sky and 70-ish degrees and had a snack breakfast (honey toast and tea) in Bagus Homestay a few yards from our Indah. We thanked our kind host Berend and...

Great night of sleep last night (thankfully) now I am 100% - got used to sound of frogs, bats, birds, monkeys etc.. then early cockerels and dogs. We grabbed a light breakfast of toast and tea - then we decided to make up for lost time and took a Honda Scooter out to explore the Island on our last full day. For only 80k (£6.00) our host Berend (owner of the Apartment) sorted us a scooter, helmets, full tank and ..erm.. insurance! We set off 10:30 all kitted up a...

(See also our other blog today) Tuesday we went to the relaxing 4 star Hotel Sinabung in Berastagi for a day pass at their pool, it only cost Rp 15,000 or £1.10 each to have the place to ourselves. In the evening we went for a meal in Berastagi to a place recommended by Lonely Planet, all of the other places recommended by them had gone to the wall. Raymond's cafe was supposed to be a laid-back bohemian joint, which it was. On the next table was a guy from Garst...

On Monday, we moved to our new accommodation Talitha Guesthouse, a short walk from the town. It boasted hot water, a shower and two rooms; tea and coffee was available on demand and breakfast was also included (Rp 150,000 per night, £11). It looked like a row of cottages on a hill above their vegetable garden, very rural and pretty. They had chickens and a couple of dogs lazing about. After our trip into town in the afternoon, we returned to our rural idyll and ...

Up at seven to meet with our guide - Awan. I had blown the electricity in the room with my iron and so we got ready in the dark and I came out unironed and with my top inside out. We didn't know quite how to dress for today, but were worried it may be cold. I wore a teashirt, a thin jumper and trousers - took my umbrella / parasol as usual. In the panic to get ready in the dark I did not put on my trainers, just had a pair of Converse. Paul was laden with our pos...