The train journey from Cuzco to Machu Picchu must be one of the best railway journeys in the world. Peru Rail must make a fortune on this route as it provides a range of service standards but seems to ensure that it is impossible to book a return (cheapest - apart from the local service) backpackers ticket and you're offered an inevitable much dearer ticket. However.........! We were at San Pedro station at 6am and once aboard the train heading forwards, we were shortly to be heading backwards, then forwards, then backwards, and so on. To explain, the train has to make a steep climb out of Cuzco to get over and into the high valley and as a result, the train makes a series of zigzags up and through the outskirts of the city. At the summit, and as we went down into the valley we could see spread out before us the rich farmland which nearly 100 years ago brought the railway to this area, and in the distance far ahead and in the direction we were heading, we could see high snow covered peaks. After passing through the small town of Anta we veered right to follow the downward path of the Rio Huarocondo as it carved its way along the floor of a steep glen and at the foot of an increasingly mountainous landscape until we came out the other end at Ollantaytambo where the Inka Trail begins. From this point we followed the Rio Urubamba through even steeper and more impressively jungle covered jaggy peaks until we slowly chugged in to the station at Machu Picchu Pueblo (formerly known as Aguas Calientes because of its hot springs). Although we were now over 1,000 metres lower than Cuzco the landscape here gives the impression of a higher altitude because of the ruggedness of the terrain. Aguas Calientes is only a small place and a few minutes walk from the station took us firstly through the market, across the main square then up an alleyway to our small eco hotel Rupi Wasi -www.rupawasi.net. After settling into our spacious room, with its balcony overlooking the mountains and with a distance view of part of the Machu Picchu citadel, we got organised for an early start the following day - buying our bus tickets and entrance tickets for Machu Picchu. One disappointing thing which we weren't aware of beforehand was that while the entrance ticket is valid for three days it's only valid for one entry. Naively, we'd thought we'd be able to pop in and out over our stay there. One thing we weren't disappointed about was the food at Rupa Wasi. They are really trying hard to provide above average food and in this respect they are certainly succeeding because our alpaca ham with sweet cucumber salad, M's quinoa chicken risotto and E's crispy spicy chicken were all excellent, and enhanced by large glasses of Peruvian red wine. Over our three nights here we ate at Rupa Wasi again and had another fantastic meal. Machu Picchu demands an early start, especially if you want to see the sunrise over the mountains and avoid the crowds that arrive mid morning. So we were up at 4.30 for breakfast and were in the queue for the first bus at 5.30. Not surprisingly we weren't the only ones but the very efficient bus service which provided a constant stream of buses quickly had us up and away. The road is steep with many and turns as it winds its way up to Machu Picchu and affords wonderful views of the cloud covered mountains and valleys. When we arrived there were already many visitors but this did not detract from our first view of Machu Picchu looking across the ruins to the Sacred and Main Plazas and towards the famous view of Waynapicchu which looms behind the site. We'd already climbed to the high terraces and the Guardian's Hut where it started to rain. Nearly everyone huddled beneath the thatched roof of the Guard's Hut while it poured down - was our visit to be a wash out? Not likely because it soon eased off and we set off to explore. We had one particular purpose and that was to climb Waynapicchu - only 400 people are allowed to climb it each day so we had to get in the queue early. It was still enjoyable to be wandering across the huge site marvelling at how such a place came to exist. Waynapicchu is certainly not for the nervous and faint-hearted because it is a stiff, steep and hairy 400 metre climb to the ruins at the top of the rocky pinnacle. After reaching the ruins you still have to scramble through a hole in the rocks and negotiate steep steps and ladders to the boulder clad summit. What wonderful views we had and once again we wondered how so many buildings could be built so high and so steep. E wondered if the Incas asked for BYOBs at their house warming parties (bring your own bricks!). We had spent an hour climbing and another hour on top but it was now time to get down and explore the main site of Machu Pichu. In many ways it is more difficult to descend because, where there are Inca made steps they are so narrow, and where it is the natural terrain it is rough, steep and wet under foot. No sooner had we made our way out of the ruins, did E slip and was left dangling on one of the few parts that have cable ropes to help walkers. This did his hip no good at all and the rest of the climb down was done very gingerly.While we'd been up Waynapicchu the sun had started to come through and it was therefore very warm by the time we got down. We were so glad we'd done the climb early while it was relatively cool. The place was now heaving with visitors as the mid morning trains from Cuzco had now arrived and it was Sunday where local people have the opportunity to visit for free. There is so much to see and explore that by the time we headed back down we'd been there for over 6 hours. We certainly enjoyed the rest back at Rupa Wasi before walking (yes more walking) up to the thermal baths for a much needed relaxing soak. There we met some young Irish travellers who had done the Inca Trail and they had some tips for eating out in Cuzco (Paddy Flaherty's Irish Pub which does a mean shepherds pie - that we sampled a few days later). At this point it struck us that there are so many nationalities travelling the world but so few Scottish. We'd met a few on our long journey but not many youngsters (apart from Andy & Morven) doing the real gap year travel/adventure. Why we often wonder ....? Also we should mention that there are many Americans (from USA that is) in South America, partly we understand because there is little time differences and they find it a relatively safe part of the world. One further observation about travellers is the distinct lack of Asians (apart from Japanese who are evident on their tours) after seeing so many in Asia, Australia and NZ. The next day was essentially a much needed day of rest although M did part of the climb up the sacred mountain of Putukusi which lies on the edge of town with access from the rail track. The side of Putukusi is so sheer that a series of vertical wooden ladders attached to the rock face are needed in order to scale it. After climbing the second ladder, a daunting 30 metres high, M's legs were feeling the strain - particularly on top of the previous day's exertions - so it was back to Rupa Wasi to put her feet up and enjoy the view from the balcony. Before heading out for a beer and a bite we decided that we'd return to Machu Picchu the next day so once again bought our bus and entrance tickets (another £70 well spent) ready for another early start in the morning. Our second visit was certainly worthwhile and very enjoyable. With numbers of visitors much lower than at the weekend, we were able to wander around and explore much more of the Machu Picchu site - it is really a magical and remarkable place. We also managed to do a walk up what is part of the world famous Inca Trail to the Inti Punku Gateway 2700 metres high overlooking Machu Picchu and Waynapicchu. After our previous hard climb, it was good to get the legs going again and it was satisfying to have such wonderful views of the area before we finally headed down into the valley and back on to the train to Cuzco. This journey was certainly unusual, as it was a more upmarket tourist train where we were treated to tea and a sandwich as well as the carriage attendants giving us a local dance and a fashion show of locally made alpaca wear. The travellers enjoyed the spectacle of the arrival of the male and then female attendants in a range of jumpers, tops, capes, most of which were very nice indeed. After dark we made our way zig zagging down the mountainside and into to 'soup bowl' in which Cuzco lies.Lots of love

Eric & Margaret xxx