We'd another really helpful taxi driver who saw us to the bus terminal for our overnight bus from Arequipa to Cuzco. Like the one in Tacna, he saw us through all the formalities so we now expect the same level of service from taxi drivers around the world! We had to travel overnight because Cruz del Sur only runs the one bus a day and we wanted to use them as they seem to have the best reputation - we've heard that other Peruvian companies are less reliable or have lower standards of comfort/safety. And we were impressed when we got to the bus terminal to find that the process was to check in, hand our rucksacks over at check in, then adjourn to a very nice departure lounge - just as if we were at an airport. Not for us the scrambling to get our rucksacks stowed safely on the bus, thank you very much. As it was overnight and a journey of 10 to 11 hours we'd opted to pay a little extra for the VIP service which has a separate compartment of only eight seats. We'd expected them to be the full cama (ie flatten out into a bed) just as we'd found on Tur Bus in Chile. We were therefore somewhat disappointed to find that they were really a kind of luxurious semi-cama - not quite so flat or so much room but wide and comfortable nevertheless - and this level of comfort was very important as we were soon to find out.

As with the bus journey from Tacna to Arequipa there were again a number of stops, but eventually we were well under way and enjoying a three course supper of veggie tart, some kind of pork with rice (very tasty), a cake and a cup of cinnamon tea. With the DVD showing some film dubbed in Spanish we snuggled down to sleep. As always, sleep on a bus is intermittent and we were conscious that the driver was really putting his foot down, even though climbing on a mountainous road to maximum height of just over 4,000 metres. We therefore thought we must be making good time. And indeed we were because some time before 7am (the time we were due to arrive in Cuzco) we awoke to find the bus slowing to a halt at a town called Urcos only a few kilometres from our destination - and it was raining!. And there we stayed put for the next eight hours! Apparently there was a national one day strike and the people of Urcos and surrounding villages were out in force, blocking the bridge over the river and other roads throughout the district. Still, there was nothing we could do about it so, as we had our comfortable seats and were able to pop out to a nearby shop for some bread to sustain us, we sat back and watched the action. Various groups of people marched along the street chanting and waving banners, and a crowd congregated at the bridge where speeches were made and feelings loudly expressed against recent high increases in the cost of foodstuffs. All very interesting to observe, but we were very glad when the crowds dispersed and we were on our way, albeit slowly at first as the bus had to negotiate the main square where it was held up yet again by the locals who were gathered for a big rally and march. We finally pulled into Cuzco at about 5pm after 21 hours on the bus - what a marathon!

A short taxi ride took us through a maze of wonderful narrow old streets, one of which ended in a set of steps and this was where we got out. We had to walk the rest of the way to our hotel, the Casona Les Pleiades to which there was no vehicular access in this ancient part of the city around San Blas. It was great to get into our room and freshen up before heading out to explore. By this time it was dark, nightfall being around 6pm, and the city looked wonderfully impressive - lively narrow streets spreading out all round from the bright colonnaded main square (yes, Plaza de Armas again) with its magnificent cathedral, and the lights of the suburbs twinkling in the surrounding hills. We meandered around just soaking up the ambience and atmosphere, but also taking the opportunity to make an enquiry about tours to the jungle, before stopping for a pisco sour and a beer - E was delighted to find a Samuel Smiths Old Pale Ale (one of his favourite beers)! Afterwards we popped into Jacks Cafe for a burger before heading up the hill for a much needed early night.

Casona Les Pleiades was a great place to stay but we'd actually booked another place, Hostal Rumi Punku, a couple of streets nearer the city centre. However, because of el paro (that dratted strike) people had, quite sensibly, decided not to travel on the strike day and instead stay in Cuzco an extra day. That meant our room wasn't available for our first night so they'd booked us in at the Pleiades. Next morning we upped sticks and took ourselves down to Rumi Punku, a really gorgeous place which even has a genuine Inca doorway. M had been struck by a bit of traveller's tummy and couldn't venture far, but was happy to stay in our very comfy room and catch up on some blog stuff while E went roaming. His first priority was to get to the Peru Rail office to collect our tickets to Machu Picchu which we'd booked on line some days ago. As today was a holiday he was advised to get there early as the office would only be open in the morning, so with map in hand and what seemed to be clear, straightforward enough directions he set off. Turned out that the map wasn't so clear nor was it quite so straightforward but eventually he got there, only to find it was closed! But he also had a second mission to fulfil and that was to find some other tour operators and suss out deals for a jungle trip. In this he was successful, eventually, after having to negotiate a city on holiday and where fiesta was in full swing - bands marching, dancers dancing and general merriment everywhere. M was gutted that she didn't get to see it.With M feeling a bit better, and the rain chucking it down (the wet season seems to have started a month early) we headed down the hill for a beer and a nice Italian meal. Cuzco is blessed with a huge range of apparently good restaurants serving a variety of cuisines from around the world, so you can't go wrong.

M's stomach continued to play up a bit but we managed to get down to the Peru Rail office and pick up our train tickets for Machu Picchu. With E's difficulty the day before we decided to take a taxi right to the door, but it took much longer than we expected because traffic was extremely heavy and in some cases was at a standstill. Later we were to find out that the traffic chaos was caused by yet another demonstration and march through the city centre. It was good to have our rail tickets so the next thing on the agenda was to sort out our trip to the jungle. At this point we should explain that Cuzco has many sights of historical interest and many museums and galleries, the majority of which are accessed by a special tourist ticket. This is only valid for a set number of days and, as we're going to be back in Cuzco next week we will get maximum benefit of it then. In the meantime Cuzco is a wonderful city simply to wander round and enjoy the sights. We did, however, pop into the Cathedral (which is not included in the tourist ticket). It comprises three separate churches all of which are filled with magnificent works of art, golden and silver altars even a painting attributed to Van Dyck. While wandering round M was amazed to spot in a group of tourists someone she used to work beside in Caxton House, London. E was surprised and thought that M had taken a religious turn when she started running through the Cathedral calling Mary!, Mary!. Mary Gough was on a Ramblers tour and having just landed in Cuzco that day was suffering the effects of the altitude. It was the first person we'd met on our travels that M had worked beside - we'd already met E's former colleagues and friends David and Sandra - and it was good to have a blether. Mary is now retired and, like M, is delighted to be out of the rat race. That evening M decided that it was better to starve the stomach bug so E headed out on his own for a pint and a bite to eat.

We've now booked our jungle trip and on Sunday 19th will set off on an eight day trip into prime Amazon jungle. We decided against one of the journeys being by plane because the wet season can delay flights and in any case it will give us an opportunity to do more wildlife spotting on the return journey. We're now getting ready for Machu Picchu tomorrow. We are mentioning altitude quite a lot as it does impact on life (for many of us at least) and the things we can do. Consequently the pace is much slower. One thing we saw a couple of weeks ago must get a mention. On our Lauca trip in Chile (when E was feeling the effects of altitude on the return journey by bus), at 4,700 metres we passed a cyclist loaded up cycling his way to Bolivia. Bearing in mind he had over 300 kms to go and had already climbed from sea level, it puts us all to shame! Hope he made it. Lots of love

E & M xxx