It was good to be back in Cuzco which by now has become very familiar, and in our comfortable room at Rumi Punku. We were staying there until the end of the week when we were due to set off into the Peruvian Amazonian jungle for an 8 day trip. Over the few days in Cuzco we were to - at last - visit some of the interesting sights in this beautiful city and make some significant decisions about our travels.

Sitting high above Cuzco is Sacsayhuaman (it sounds like sexy woman) a key Inca site and the remains of a megalithic fortress/temple. It was a steep climb from our hotel but again we made it and took a guide to show us around. It was interesting to learn of its, and Cuzco's, history and to see the portrayal in the walls of some of the animals which were of high importance to the Incas - although it took some imagination to spot the serpent the llama was fairly easy to make out and the puma's paw was really obvious. After our brief guided tour we were free to roam this massive site and take our time to admire and marvel at the amazing architecture, jagged ramparts and the precision of the cutting and placement of often massive stones - some of them the largest used in ancient Peru and weighing as much as 300 tonnes.

After spending an enjoyable few hours at Sacsayhuaman we wandered back down the hill and into one of Cuzco's many excellent museums. The Museo Inka is in an impressive old colonial building with 20 plus rooms full of interesting information and exhibits about the Incas in this particular area - after all this was the capital of the Inca empire. We found some of the information in guide books a little out of date, because it seems that the Peruvians are constantly changing their ticketing arrangements, opening hours etc. One museum we were keen to visit was the Natural History Museum which is located inside a university building in Plaza de Armas. When we called in at 3.30pm (when it was supposed to be open) we were told it had closed for the day at 3pm would be open tomorrow from 9am to 3pm. When we arrived at the door the following day it was closed with no explanation as to why. We'll try again when we get back from the jungle. However, we did manage to visit the Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus and the absolutely splendid Iglesia y Convento de la Merced, in a very peaceful setting around a wonderful garden/courtyard. It was filled with an array of priceless treasures, the highlight of which was a solid gold, jewel encrusted 17th century monstrance over a metre high. It never ceases to amaze us how so many valuable works of art exist in religious institutions around the world. Between coffee stops, meals, drinks and visits to the bank (see below) we also managed to visit the Museo de Arte Pre Colombino which had wonderfully presented displays of pre Inca and Inca works in silver, gold, shells, bones, wood, and pottery. Many pieces were remarkable because they were so sophisticated yet dated from 1250BC. The Koricancha Complex was another gem and at only 10 Soles (less than £2) was the centre of the Inca civilisation. Although the invading Spanish built a monastery and chapel on the site, the Complex gives great insight into the Inca and Spanish eras. When we were booking our bus to Puno, we discovered that we had a dud 100 Soles (£20) note and were advised to take it back to the bank where we think it originated from one of their ATMs. Despite a fair old discussion at the counter in the crowded and busy central branch of BCP, where we managed to occupy at least 7 or 8 staff with our problem, we did not persuade them to take the note back. Counterfeit notes are a major problem in some South American countries so this being the first encounter with one, we've probably got off lightly. But it did put us on guard, particularly as we have managed to get a discount for cash from our Amazon tour operator. As this means taking out loads of cash over a few days, we've managed to pester the BCP branch by asking them to check our money after it emerges from the ATM. Every time we walk in we can see the staff ducking down behind the counters!!Cuzco has also been a major decision making point in our travels. We have been on the road for much longer than planned and we have therefore decided to return home in January or February next year. We will see out the remainder of our planned travels in South America and Antartica and after our New Year in Colan (Francisco from Rupa Wasi in Machu Picchu Peublo was born and brought up in Colan and was very impressed we'd be spending Hogmanay there) will head to Ecuador. We hope to be able to visit Quito and the Galapagos before flying home. We've been thinking about our onward travels for some time and it was great to be able to have a Skype video call with great friend Karen who seemed to pre-empt and echo our thoughts. Essentially it would be wrong to try to tackle Central & North America when we might not be in top form. It would be much better to return refreshed and enjoy them to the full. So now we need to get on with planning South America and how we arrange our return to the UK - more on that later.Lots of love

Eric & Margaret xxx