Well, it was another typically Cusco early start - up at 4am to be at the tour office by 5. E had been at the briefing the previous evening and had met most of those who would be our fellow explorers for the next 8 days so it was good to see them all shuffling around with hats pulled down over their ears to help ward off the cold morning. Our tour guide Alvaro introduced himself then all we had to do was wait for our transport to arrive. It seemed to take longer than necessary - after all they knew we leaving at 5 this morning! But eventually a couple of old and battered mini buses turned up, our stuff was loaded on the roof, and we were off on the long journey by road and river to Manu.Alvaro soon revealed his enthusiasm and knowledge about the environment, as we climbed out of Cusco regaling us with details of how the eucalyptus trees introduced into Peru about 100 years ago were pushing out the indigenous trees and vegetation. It was a story we'd heard so often on our travels of how introduced species of plants and animals were wreaking havoc across their new homelands. After dropping down into the Sacred Valley where the Urubamaba River (which rises at El Mismi and is the official source of the Amazon River - mentioned in our Colca Canyon blog) was now flowing East into the Atlantic, we left the surfaced road and started the long and twisty climb up to an Andean ridge at 4,000 metres. This was a main thoroughfare (which service buses, taxis and other many vehicles used) serving the many settlements in this remote part of the country but it was a rough track in very poor condition and in places looking very dangerous. Not long up the mountainside, we had a puncture so it was everyone off! It was then we noticed that our minibus had different sized tyres, the offending wheel was missing the correct number of wheelnuts, and irrelevant at this point, the windscreen was held on by duc-tape!! While we got to know one another and ckeck out the incredible landscape, after a bit of a struggle, our driver, Walter, had managed to put on the spare (the one and only) wheel and we set off again.

Within 30 minutes we were able to take a break at Huancarani, a bustling little market town. While Walter set about repairing the tyre, we wandered around buying fruit, bread, batteries, etc and having a cup of tea. Back on board were off once more marvelling at the resourcefulness of these mountain Peruvians, farming with such ancient methods and at such an altitude, until at the highest point of the road we stopped to look at the chullpas (pre Inca burial towers) that overlook both valleys and the high snow covered peaks of the area. From there we descended to Paucartambo, the last main settlement before heading into the Amazonian jungle, where we found a great gathering of colourful local clans and the local school band giving it laldy marching around the main square. We never did find out exactly what it was all about but it was a big welcome for us travellers. Oddly, there were a couple of references about town on buildings and bridges to Sven Eriksson - is this where he's ended up after being turfed out of the England job, we wondered.

Soon afterwards, and climbing steeply once more along the increasingly heavily rutted track, we reached the Acjanacu Pass which marked a significant point in our journey - the end of the cultivated and dry western side of the Andes, the beginning of the Amazon jungle - the Cloud Forest at this point - and the entrance to the Cultural Zone of the Manu Biosphere Reserve. We dropped down into the jungle past the occasional tiny settlement. A short distance from our first lodge, we got out of the mini bus for a much needed walk down the road sitting high above the river spotting birds as we went. We certainly ticked off quite a few, including a male and female c*** of the Rock (Peru's national bird) which whetted our appetite for the coming week. Further down the road we were fortunate to see many more c*** of the Rocks but this time all males doing their courting dances without, it seems, attracting a female - obviously they are very fussy!

It was then into our lodge at San Pedro where we were to stay the first night. The lodges/campsites are very basic and have little or no hot water and power from generators that operates only between 6pm and 9pm when the lights go out. However, we ate well and slept even better after an enjoyable evening getting to know our fellow travellers, including Ilan from Israel who introduced us to Yanif, an Israeli card game which was to become a nightly feature of our entertainment. We were also joined by Jordi from Barcelona who had come with another group. There would eventually be 19 in all, but we would be spit into 2 groups. So to introduce the others in our group there were: Marcin and Asia a very bubbly & lively couple from Poland, Elliott (Reigate) and Anghared (Salisbury) (interestingly Elliott's Mum is from Poland so he speaks fluent Polish), Nas (Cambridge) a lovely chap who is a retired senior Civil Service lawyer (Elliott and Anna have just qualified as lawyers), Jordi, and a couple that would join us at our next stop, Artur and Eva from guess where? - Poland. As you will also guess the 2 Polish couples got on well sometimes being a bit too exuberant to the minor irritation of our guide Alvaro.

Next morning it was cloudy and wet (we were still high in the Cloud Forest after all), it was back into the mini bus and off we set spotting loads of birds along the way, visiting a coca farm (coca production is no longer the drug problem it was a few years ago as it is now in government ownership), and then to the start of our rafting section of the trip. This was a real thrill and possible the second best rafting experience we've had (after the Izere in the French Alps). We had a good mix of white water, rapids, and water fights with the other raft and we all had a thoroughly good time and soaking!! It was then into the boats (we were now well beyond any road or track) for a 30 minute trip down river to Erika which would be our camp for the night and also our camp on the last night of the trip. As we were now at a lower altitude and further into the jungle, it was much hotter and humid. But we fell into a routine that would become familiar over the next few nights - find our room, get unpacked, shower, play cards, have dinner, maybe play cards until lights out, sleep. At Erika however there was another treat in store. We had a walk through the jungle and some of us had the opportunity to do the canopy ride (those who missed out would do it the following morning). This ride involved being strapped into a harness then hanging from a cable high above the forest floor travelling at speed from one tree to the next. There were 4 rides in all finished off with an abseil down. We were not in the first group but it looked great fun and we couldn't wait until tomorrow. Also at Erika we were supplied with much needed wellies for the remainder of our Amazon experience.

Next morning it was up very early for the short boat ride downstream to a clay lick. This is where hundreds of parrots and parakeets come several times a week around 5am to lick/eat the clay for the minerals they contain. We watched from the other side of the river, through binoculars, as the birds swooped and circled then landed for their own version of breakfast. Back at camp we had our own breakfasts then it was our turn for the canopy ride. Wellies donned, we picked up our backbacks containing the aforementioned harness, pulley and gloves and off we headed. We managed to spot our first monkeys on this trip - night monkeys that really don't do very much. A family, which apparently had disappeared a couple of weeks ago had returned and were sitting quietly a few feet above our head watching us watching them. Up at the canopy, we were given instructions and everyone had a great series of rides through the high trees. But to be honest we didn't see any wildlife what with all the whooping and wheeing as we 'flew' from one tree to the next. The abseil too was another first for us and as E progressed groundwards, we could all smell the burning rubber from his gloves. But we made and enjoyed it.

After a quick shower we all piled into the boats for the five-hour leisurely sail down the Rio Madre de Dios spotting loads of birdlife, and our first caiman, as we went. We all got very excited when, at a toilet stop, one of the guides spotted what he said were jaguar tracks, and they were very recent - it was probably the quickest toilet stop ever, and the nearest we came to a jaguar! Lunch was a picnic on board and it felt immensely decadent to be lounging in our narrowboat eating an excellent lunch as the Amazon jungle flowed by on both sides. About five hours later we arrived at the tiny village of Boca Manu, the last opportunity for us to stock up on supplies so some of us took the opportunity to buy cold beers (but they weren't cold by the time they were drunk). We were entertained by the local parrot who was able to mimic some of us within minutes and who had a hearty laugh that echoed across the village. Soon it was back on the boat and we were off to our 3rd camp just a short boat ride from Boca Manu. This was nearly luxury because it was the first time we had an en-suite toilet/shower room. But the lights still went out at 9 and the water was cold. It was where we had our first evening walk in the dark where we used our flashlights or headlamps. It was good to walk at night but we didn't see or experience any special, although the fireflies were pretty and M had a close encounter with a poisonous spider which was dangling inches above her head.

Next morning, packed and boats loaded early, we were off, via the National Park checkpoint - we were now into prime Amazon forest - up the Rio Manu to the heart of the jungle and eventually to our camp, Sajino, for the next couple of nights. We'd spotted an increasing number of birds, many at close quarters, and Alvaro's checklist was quickly filling up. So now what we were hoping to see were animals.

Sajino was set right by the river and as always we had to form a human chain to move all the luggage and food and cooking stuff from the boats to the camp. This was very often a messy affair as the banks of the river are essentially Amazonian mud, thick gooey mud, not helped by the early advance of the rainy season. Our time at Sajino was spent doing many walks through the jungle and sailing on a wooden catamaran on Lake Salvador (an ox bow lake) and we got what we came for!

Walks with Alvaro were always interesting - we would steal quietly along rough forest paths in pursuit of monkeys, necks getting cricked from looking constantly upwards, so when he had a likely sighting, we would dash off into the heavy undergrowth (despite earlier having been warned that in the undergrowth there were things that could bite and sting - thank goodness for the wellies). On one of our afternoon walks we came across a small troupe of Spider Monkeys, unfortunately quite high in the trees but still very clear, and as they ate cherries we were pelted with cherry stones and bit of red flesh from above. Later, while paddling silently over the lake, apart from the many birds and sightings of monkeys high in the trees, we really fortunate to see a family of six giant otters - and they certainly are huge - playing, swimming and fishing. We spent a thrilling 30 or so minutes watching them at close quarters. While returning to our mooring we were joined by a couple of Black Caiman which swam alongside us. On another walk to Lake Otorongo (another ox bow) we came across a large, playful troupe of gorgeous wee Squirrel Monkeys leaping through the trees. These are often accompanied by smaller groups of more intelligent Brown Capuchin Monkeys and, yes, they weren't far behind cavorting in the trees. But probably our best sighting was of a family of Red Howler Monkeys. We had made a dash for a tower overlooking the Lake and we were very fortunate to arrive just as the family of Howlers were climbing over the tower - looking down at us looking up at them. We made our way to top of the tower while the Howlers made their way through the trees only feet from us. Great sightings indeed.

On our long return journey we had many more sightings of Caiman, turtles and many species of birds. The boat was such a relaxing way to travel but the crew had to work extremely hard to negotiate the shallow rapids (we were warned that we may have to get out and push) and other areas littered with dangerous hazards such as fallen trees and rocks. They also provided us with constant supplies of refreshments and food. A few days before, on our journey into the Amazon, there was a flurry of activity for seats towards the bow. We were lucky to get the front row and settled into a few enjoyable hours enjoying the unspoilt views. However, we soon found out that front row (and even 2nd and 3rd row) seats have their downsides. When we headed into the wind the spray from the wake absolutely soaked us and we had to snuggle under plastic sheeting to keep dry - too late by then however!

Our second last night was supposed to be at Boca Manu but when we arrived at the village we were told there had been a double booking and we would have to continue to Yanayacu. Others who were flying out would, however stay, at Boca Manu (where the airstrip was) so there were some unexpected and rushed goodbyes (our group left Artur and Eva at Boca Manu) then the remainder of us made our way 2 hours upstream. In many ways this was a better camp and we had a really enjoyable night of popcorn, beers, cards, dinner, cards, music (Ilan's iPod). The camp also had a pet resident tapir called Pancho. During the night it rained heavily and we had to get up and move the bed to avoid E's head being soaked. In the morning it was still wet and overcast but as we headed upstream the weather improved as we reached Erika which, in fairness, is probably one of the more scenic areas because of the backdrop of high mountains. Erika was to be our last night but as soon as we landed we were able to join a few of the group who were doing the canopy once more. Without time to sort out our room and unpack were off along paths much wetter than last time, to the high point and start of the ride. It was great to be able to do this once again and on our way we had another really good sighting of the family of Night Monkeys near the camp. After dinner the crew opened a few bottles of Peruvian wine - a really nice touch, we thought. Over a few beers and even beyond lights out we continued to play cards, all of us reluctant to end what had been a really great trip. We were really pleased to have chosen to go with Manu Ecological Adventures - we couldn't have asked for better.

Final day and it was a short boat journey over to the start of the road where we said farewells to our boat crew (both boat crews work together in the camps, which are mostly unmanned, to provide our meals and prepare food for the following day). Then it was into mini buses once more (these ones in much better condition than those on the inward journey) where our driver was - Eric (remember Walter?). Well Eric was like E - a bit mad behind the wheel and we were soon hurtling along roads that Walter had negotiated much more carefully. However, it was good to be making better time as this stage of the inward journey had taken us 2 days. We were soon out of the Manu National Park and at Paucartambo where we hit our first problem. A lorry had got stuck between a bulldozer and a wooden structure propping up the hillside. The locals didn't seem to be finding a solution to the blocked one and only road out of town - until we arrived. We were all soon digging out the wooden structure - conscious that it supposed to be holding up tons of rock and earth - so that a few inches could be gained to allow the lorry to pass through - and it did! We were off once again but then suffered two punctures before we reached Cuzco - what is it with Peruvian tyres! It was hugs and kisses as we said sad goodbyes to everyone, not least to our guide and friend Alvaro.

Lots of love

E & M xxx