Having ambled down the dusty highway for the last time, I arrived at Villa La Angostura bus station for my evening bus to San Martin de los Andes. I was met at the bus by most of the local street dogs including the one from my campsite. It was like they had come to say "Thanks for coming, now f*ck off" The journey to San Martin was memorable to say the least. About 50 miles of the 75 mile journey was on dust tracks full of loose stones. The 'road'weaved up and down and around the mountains and the 'bus' occasionally grinded to a halt before struggling up a steep hill in first gear! Someone had opened one of the windows in our 'bus' which made it very cold. On the way, we picked up a taxi driver who's cab had broken down, some trekkers who were clearly off co-ordinates and even a police officer who's colleague pulled us over with his blues on! San Martin is a very tranquil town set on Lago (Lake) Lacer and surrounded by verdant mountains. The town has a very wintery feel thanks to the constant smell of wood-burning fires which fill the streets 24 hours a day. On my first full day, I went solo on a two hour hike out of town before heading back to impress the ladies with my home-made chicken in white wine sauce with vegetables. On the second day, I went on a guided boat trip to a place called Hua Hum which is a small settlement on the other side of the lake. The day saw me visit a small island with a bizarre Capilla (Chapel) before hiking a couple of km's to a waterfall which, compared to Iguazu falls, looked like a dog p*ssing up a wall! On my last day in the town, I hired a bike and cycled around the town centre whilst remenicing upon the cycling proficiency days where I was labelled 'death wish'. After checking out the town, I decided to cycle 5km's up a mountain to a mirador which offers awesome views of both the town and of the lake. It was a personal triumph to have made the summit which involved negociating a road which was being resurfaced as I rode on it (see photos). Also, the tyres were flat which has resulted in me feeling the need to stand rather than sit for the forseable future! After the mirador, I cycled deeper into the forest to arrive at a Mapuche comminity where I saw cows laden with goods being shepherded down the track. The local lads where hurling rocks at the loose cattle who were straying off the racing line! For those of you who are too lazy to pick up a book or log onto google, the Mapuche people are the indigenous population that live a very basic life on the fringes of town. They are very friendly people. On my last night in San Martin, I practiced my Spanish on an attractive Argentinian girl who had travelled alone from Buenos Aires to San Martin. This morning, I awoke at 5am to get the four hour bus across the border to Pucon, Chile. The tiny border control was, once again, a complete nightmare. I must have written my name and passport number down four times and exchanged enough pieces of paper to warrant planting a new rainforest! How do you spell South America? B.E.A.U.R.O.C.R.A.C.Y! Pucon is about twice the size of Farnham but with half the population. Tomorrow, I am signed up to climb the active volcano which dominates the skyline to the north of the city. (It last errupted in 1984, but it is smoking as I look out the window!) Rock 'n'Roll...