36 08.07 N 005 21.3 W Gibraltar

Sorry in advance about the length of this one! Well, we have had an interesting few days. I am not sure I have mentioned, but we have a problem with our depth gauge. It mostly does not work, very occasionally it bursts into life and shows double the depth and very very occasionally works correctly for a while. Trouble is knowing which bit is at fault.

The other thing I probably haven't mentioned are the two hazards along this coast that have nothing to do with your boat or the wind or sea state. One is the number of firing ranges and live firing activity that the navy indulges in, and the other are the number and spread of the tunny nets. Tuna fishing is big business here, the nets are vast, some stretching for 7 miles, more often 2 or 3 miles. Normally they are well marked with cardinals and sometimes patrol boats, but I would not want to negotiate this coastline at night. The nets are so strong they could rip the big prop off a strong trawler if caught.

Wednesday, 26th May

So. We left Cadiz, aiming for Barbate. We were ambling along minding our own business when a boat comes roaring up to us and in Spanish asks us to follow him for a couple of miles. As it is a fairly official looking craft and the booming going on over our heads is really quite loud, we comply! This firing range patrol boat took us approx 2 miles south, then 1 ½ miles east. Not far from where we eventually wanted to be headed in a roundabout sort of way. They obviously wanted to lob shells at just the patch of water we happened to be sailing through. All very good natured though.

Now instead of going to Barbate as planned, we diverted into a little place called Sancti Petri. It sounded nice, although a shallow approach and into an estuary. With no depth sounder this was interesting on the nerves. The little marina had no room for us, so we went further upriver to a spot recommended by a fellow British boat and anchored for the night. Richard donned wetsuit, we rigged up safety lines, and he dived under the boat to have a scrape at the depth unit. It seems to help for a bit, then gave up the ghost again. He has already re-wired the thing, so that's not it.

Thursday, 27th May

Not much here, so onwards to Barbate in the morning. A useful stopover, again nothing of interest or note, except missing the tunny nets. Up close they look dangerous, but well marked with day-glo orange buoys. However, we did meet up with a Malo 37, whom we had seen in Chipiona, who very kindly dismantled their own depth gauge head to allow us to test ours on their boat. The head (electronics part) worked perfectly, so now we know it is the through hull bit that has failed. Not good news as to replace like for like means taking the boat out of the water. Don't want to do that (v expensive / time consuming) so reviewing other options. But we did round Cape Trafalgar and said "well done, Nelson" as we did so.

Saturday, 29th May

Hurray, we got through the Straits of Gibraltar unscathed and are now in Queensway Quay, Gibraltar sweltering in 34 deg C heat. First excitement, we rounded Tarifa (to sailors these are all names to be reckoned with) where apparently the wind blows in excess of 30 knots for over 300 days per year. We rounded it gently, goose-winging and admiring the changing coastline. Losing the flat salt pans and gaining hills and cliffs. Major excitement was spotting North Africa over to our right (W saw it first!) It looks much more mountainous than this side. Huge number of tankers and sundry other big ships going through the Straits, we are glad of the AIS that allows us to track them. We follow the Inshore Traffic Zone, so are well out of their way until the actual Gib approach when they all seem to be criss-crossing and coming at you from all directions. On that approach too, the wind suddenly decided to do its afternoon thing of picking up, so we whooshed into Gibraltar Bay with up to 30 knots of wind as we tried to dodge the big ones and locate where on earth a little boat goes. We were helped into our berth by helpful marina staff, for our second only Mediterranean style mooring (mooring bow or stern to a quay/pontoon and picking up fixed lines to take back to the other end of the boat).

This is all very smart where we are. We are one of the smallest boats, but we do not have an inferiority complex as ours is also perfectly formed. Very strange feeling, this is like Britain a couple of decades ago. Everything is in sterling, there is typical Brit fare and we'll be able to stock up on a couple of favourite staples in the local supermarket. And the runway really does go out over the water, even though we are small, our mast is tall enough that we would have to radio ahead to get clearance to go round to the fuel jetty!

Sunday 30th / Monday 31st May Bank Holiday

Happy 80th to W's Uncle Sid (he of doctor fame). There is a big family do planned in Canada, we are there in spirit.

Of course we arrive and everything shuts down. They do not keep Spanish hours, but truncated English ones and Monday is a holiday. We wanted to order our depth thing, either from the chandlery here or in the UK and get it sent here, but can do nothing for a couple of days. So sightseeing.

We took the cable car up to the top of the "Rock" and walked the nature trail down (hours and hours and miles and hot!). The views were absolutely stunning - a beautiful clear day meant you could easily see over to Morocco, as well as up the Spanish coast into the Med. So we have arrived, gateway to Med, once out of here, turn left and we're through - just several hundreds of miles to go.....

The apes (or macaques) were fun, they were in charge and looked at us with disdain. Since a strict no-feeding policy was introduced and what food they are officially fed is set back in certain areas, the aggressiveness has disappeared and they don't leap at you. (They still leap on cars). They also have to go and forage. One can get quite close, but they are still wild creatures with very strong teeth. They are also breeding, with several very young ones about and others due to be born in the next weeks. So protective mums need to be given space! Huge variety in size and colour of butterflies. The rock is very sheer and the whole area really quite small. Can definitely see the strategic appeal for the Navy.

A cycle round the rock, better views now of N Africa. Not sure about next steps, depends on what we can do about the depth gauge. Only regrets, we didn't go to Tangier (maybe on way back) and we did not see ANY whales going through the Straits. Major disappointment. All else is terrific. So until next time, hoping all is well with everyone (sorry Sam and Thomas about the weather in Devon), W & R xx