36 49.8 N 002 27.7 W Almeria
Monday 14th June 2010

We have been making our way along the south Spanish Coast. Left Ceuta and nipped back to Gibraltar for some cheap diesel and then finally headed east and into the Med properly. We left in turbulent water, playing dodgems with the big ships. We have had several days of fast downwind sailing (F7 behind us at the back end of a 54 mile stint day before yesterday), big swell, and surfing conditions. Par example, statistics for the 8th-12th June, boat speeds through the water of 9.8, 8.2, 8.3, 9.8 knots and with speeds over the ground of 10.1, 11.2, 9.8, 11.7 knots. To big boats that might not sound too much but for a little 10.3 metre thing that is going some. Absolutely and totally in control, of course!

So, we have been slightly bemused by the amount of swell, even in calmer conditions. We stopped at Estepona, Fuengirola, Caleta de Velez, Adra and now here in Almeria. This is Costa del Sol country and so there is much to be avoided. However, for us there were also areas of interest. In times past, we have visited R's sister Caroline and her family (CLOP) here - they have a finca in the hills north of Malaga - and so have explored a good bit of the area by car, including hill top pueblos, Granada and the Alhambra, and of course the markets and beaches of the coast. So it was interesting to see otherwise familiar bits from seaward.

A strange feeling also to see (sailing past on a boat in shorts, in sunshine) the Sierra Nevada with snow still glinting on the topmost peaks. Further along the coast it flattens out for a while and there is mile after mile and acre upon acre of plastic sheeting and poly-tunnels. This is the fruit, veg and flower growing area with a vengeance - virtually soil-less agriculture. Then the sierras return as one approaches Almeria.

Here there is a magnificent 10th Century Alcazaba (fortress / castle) perched high above the town - it is vast - apparently the biggest medieval fortress in the whole of Andalucia. The town itself has wide open avenues, lined with palms, but also other trees that have been clipped into identical big doughnut or polo mint shapes. Hundreds of them. Typically, we got here Sunday evening and many of the historical bits are closed on Mondays. We were going to press on tomorrow, but we'll check the weather first and if not brilliant, will stay another day. But whatever, we will go up to the Alcazaba in the morning, come what may!

Inland from here near Tabernas in the Sierras and deserts, is spaghetti Western country, where many of those films were made (eg the Good, the Bad and the Ugly), as well as films supposedly set in the Arabian desert. Wish I had a car to go have a look!

Next bit round the Cabo de Gato looks promising - spectacular scenery to come. But another long leg of 50+ miles, unless the expected weather is wrong. There is an anchorage en route, but only in very settled conditions......