39 51.8 N 004.08.7 E Cala Coves, Menorca, Tuesday 14th September

Ster Wenn as a necropolis - Another week, another circumnavigation..... of Menorca.

Sunday, and we didn't get very far as we watched more of the triathlon than we meant to - it was hot for the poor competitors. Started our clockwise "circumnavigation" of the island, looking in on Addaia (a lot of people like it, there seemed to be a lot of British boats there, up a narrow channel, not much space and for some reason neither of us took to it), a beach to anchor off for the night just under Cabo Favaritx, and a lunchtime stop at Cala Teulera in Mahon, just underneath Isabel's fortress. Whereas the northeastern coast is bleak and plantless and covered in prehistoric navetas, taulas and talaiots, this part (SE) is red Devon with sunshine and warmth!

Best stops in circumnavigation were a little cala called Cala Coves and another called Macarella on the south coast. Cala Coves - so called because of the roughly hundred caves it contains. A tiny slice in the low cliffs means only a few boats can fit. We were stern to the rocks with a line ashore. The whole cala is a necropolis, limestone cliffs that have had caves dug out by hand by prehistoric Talaiotic peoples in the 9th-7th century BC. Originally used as collective and individual burial and cremation places, they later became places of pilgrimage in Roman times and beyond. And in more recent times they have been used by the dreadlock and "I want to wander around naked" brigade and the area was apparently quite littered. Many of the caves (but by no means all) have now been sealed up, partly to preserve some and partly because some are dangerous. But you can still climb up and visit quite a few - how they got the dead bodies up there amazes me. The litter is gone now and the place is quiet - camping in them is verboten. The only prowlers around at night are those coming out for a spot of night fishing!

But the holes in the rock make you feel the eyes of the dead are watching over you. A unique little spot - reminds of us Ster Wenn on Belle Ile, but with attitude.

A couple of nights there and then Wednesday on to Macarella, which has the reputation as the most photographed cove on the island - one of the natural coves with the prettiest aspect, the bluest water, the whitest sands, etc etc. Well if we're choosing our stops by postcard, might as well choose the best. And have to say it was pretty stunning, with protected forested dunes behind. A bit of a rolly night there, but very worth it to swim in the clear turquoise water surrounded by pipe fish and our old friends, the silvery blue black-spot fish.

A stop to look at the possibility of Ciutadella by boat, but carried on now as we started, with a stop in Algaiarens (with the bleating wild mountain goats) and back to Cala Fornells. Here to wifi connection, so we can plan the next hop. It's roughly 190nm from Fornells to Alghero, Sardinia, so anywhere between 28 and 36 hour passage depending on conditions. Need to get that one right. So next instalment may well be from Bella Italia. Will say when we set off....

ps: Very very sad, but Margaret & Roger will appreciate! Got back to Fornells to enthusiastic marinhero helping us onto a Posidonia buoy - but a bit out in the middle of nowhere. Wifi signal very weak, so we sneaked back onto the very same buoy we were on last Friday (A8) after he had clocked off - didn't want to offend him!