Today is our last day in Dubrovnik, and our first chance to sleep in, enjoying the luxury of sea view rooms in Hotel Argentina. A leisurely champagne buffet breakfast (we had somehow missed the champagne bottles the last two mornings) on the terrace over looking the old town, was followed by a stroll through the grounds. The gardens of this hotel are magnificent, and if anyone has seen the gardens in the Game of Thrones from the tropical countries, you will understand the style of garden and the terraces leading down to the sea. (Don't worry, I took lots of photos if you are not sure what R is on about! MH) We spent a good two hours in the gardens watching the water traffic and taking photos. We arrived back at the restaurant just in time to order espressos as they were closing the breakfast buffet (muffins for morning tea). We checked out of our room, and headed for the bakery for takeaway lunch, and arrived at the Marina in time to catch the ferry to Lokrum Island ( the island we viewed from our bedroom window). The tickets were not cheap, but we had a wonderful afternoon exploring the island including passing the nudist beach on the rocks, the monastery (being repaired) and wonderful shady walks amongst the trees (pines and cyprus among the larger trees). Our first mission whilst we were still fresh off the boat was to climb the highest point, with an old Napoleon round fort on top. This fort was still in good condition and would have had a commanding view in all directions, but today was slightly obscured by the trees. The internal of the fort was nice and cool, dark and dank. The paths leading to the fort were largely still original cobbled affairs probably dating back to the early 1800's. We then walked down the walls that were built to guard the fort and house the garrison, and headed out to the promontory across the water from Dubrovnik's walls. This is a magic walking area which we would recommend to anyone coming to Dubrovnik, especially if you want to escape the crowds & heat. Our next stop in exploring this island was the Nudist beach. I was sorely tempted to strip off and go for a swim, as the water is incredibly inviting, but has been cold. There were a number of brave souls out on the rocks sunning themselves with full exposure to the passing tourist boats - the 'no photos' sign not applying to them! (He just wasn't brave enough, we always carry a microfibre towel in the backpack! MH) A short walk from this area was an amazing sea basin (called the Dead Sea). It was connected to the ocean by a large sink hole that acted like a plug in the bath. Every time there was a large swell on the coast this large pond would make gurgling noises and then swell up and down, like someone had sloshed the bath water. This pond was cut off physically from the sea by a large rock formation, so it was completely hidden from the sea. It was like a secret cove, which made an excellent swimming hole. I went for a paddle and decided it passed the Waihi Gorge temperature test, but I hadn't togs, and it wasn't polite to go nude in this place. The water, like the sea, was crystal clear and blue. Michelle enjoyed watching the little shell crabs moving about in the shallows while dipping tired feet in the water. This island is covered in huge ordinary coloured rabbits, pure black rabbits and peacocks. The peacocks are found high, squawking in trees, and they are enormous. The Dead Sea had a man made stage area high above on the rock formation. This had been taken over by a number of peacocks, with the males attempting to outdo each other with their displays, strutting around this stage area as if they were Mick Jagger. They really did put on a show. We continued to explore the island and discover the Game of Thrones exhibit and related gardens. The Throne of Westeros was on display, so it was a great opportunity for a few photos. The gardens and buildings of the Monastery are looking a little rundown, but effort is going into repairing them. You can see the potential in both, and clearly the GoT directors saw the same and dressed up the area well. We headed back to catch the last ferry back to Dubrovnik at 4pm (you are not allowed to stay on the island). Back at Dubrovnik, Michelle found her long-stitch lady up on the city walls, and made a few purchases. She remembered Michelle from the other day, and great conversation ensued; but I was sent to find some more money! After walking the streets, we set out to do our laundry. This turned into a very frustrating and initially expensive exercise (as the machine kept swallowing 50kn notes for no action), but ended with the Canadian owner turning up refunding the lost money, and Michelle and I sitting in the Laundrette eating pizza, drinking beer, watching the washing machine and dryer do their thing. Sad but true on our last night! Later that evening we were collected from the hotel by a new Mercedes E class car (with nice leather seats), and literally whisked off to our ferry to Bari. The ferry was the equivalent of the old Cook Strait ferries, except with cabins. We had a larger cabin with bigger bathroom, than the last ferry trip, but it is a lot older. So as we leave Croatia, we have time to reflect on this experience, and assess its value as a destination for others. If you like Italy you will love Croatia (there we have just offended a lot of people). We would comeback in a heartbeat. It's cheap, clean, beautiful, and surprising. The Adriatic around here is so stunning, clear, and inviting wherever we went. The history is fascinating, along with the ancient architecture. Above all the people were friendly and very helpful, and generally had a very good grasp of speaking English. Travel out of the tourist spots and buildings become a little depressing, and the lifestyle seems slightly subsistent. If it's not on your travel list, then make it! We have the Game of Thrones to thank for our curiosity for coming, and I think this will be the highlight of our travels. orbit travel back in Christchurch connected us with Atlas Travel group in Croatia who did a great job putting our plan together and making sure we were collected at key times. The hotels were stunning to good. Tomorrow, back in Italy and the Sassi in Matera, staying in a new 'cave' hotel. Grand tours are tough!