Started Galapagos today, and what a cluster f***. We're the youngest people on the boat by about 100 years, and I'm sea sick. Seriously, it's the blue rinse walking dead on this thing - i've never seen this much stretched out flabby skin in one place before. Every time one of them cracks a joke about half have to leave to change their Depends or their pants. At least they're a rich subset of pensioners though do they don't smell - other than their general stench of death. I'm certain there will be an upgrade or two available over the next seven days as they gradually die off. On a proper serious note the ship is actually stacked with mod cons and we did get an upgrade to a suite (which is lucky cos our original room doesn't even look like it has windows). The food 's great, tour guide Miguel is great, and I can't imagine what sort of sea sickness I'd have on any smaller a boat. Took little boat round to see tortoise and brown pelicans in the mangroves I the afternoon but didn't disembark yet. There's karaoke at the bar from 9:30 pm. Oh. God.

Spotted today: sea lions and blue footed boobies at wharf; sea turtles, brown pelicans and some other birds on panga ride.