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I move out of my empty dorm room. The hostel has been ok. Nice having access to a pool but the cleaning staff are bone idle. My bathroom stinks and there has been a mysterious trail of blood from the room next door that still hasnt been cleaned. I speak to 3 lads who met a local mafia guy last night. They have been offered an afternoon firing a variety of guns and will be introduced to a mafia kingpin. They seem excited, maybe this explains the blood, a previous customer perhaps. We jump into one of the small Thai jeeps, squashed on with a chinese family with all their luggage, refusing to put it on the roof. There are 4 other backpackers, 3 English lads and an English girl. We stop at a bus station to get on a minibus. Lots of people heading to Pai and a free for all. The English girl gets the last seat on bus number 2, but room is made for us in the front(LT), next to the cooling ventilation. We say goodbye to the 3 guys, hopefully they can catch the next one. We stop at a traffic light. Unusual in itself in Asia, but I watch an old monk take a pill out a vile, crush it in his hand and snort it through a metal straw. Worthy of a caption competition. I start to realise that the front seat has ventilation that isnt part of the aircon behind me. The 'little thing(LT)' no longer applying. Its similar in vein to a prawn cracker. You eat a few but there is never enough of a prawn taste, the air equally as giving. The ventilation cooling me like a bees wing. We make a pitstop, 2 people have been sick with the many twists in the road. Nice to get out for 5 minutes. The route reminds me of going to the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. A combination of the overcast sky, winding roads and sloping forest at sections, with the road cutting through the middle.
The heavens open as our driver is trying to overtake a truck. Luckily I am typing and miss the hazardous maneuver. As we climb we drive through sections of low clouds. My ears are popping and the road is constantly winding and moving upwards. There is a sign for a toilet, rather than the picture showing someone sitting down, it depicts a person kneeling over it throwing up. Probably just as well the green passengers in the back dont see this. The road starts going down with an increase in the twists and turns. Somebody obviously feels the motion and as I write I hear the faint echo of some poor sod being sick.
As we approach Pai, there are hotels and boutique accomodation based around a 'tree of love'. An attraction invented post last visit. When I hit Pai, I am gobsmacked. From the ingredients of a chicken pai to a slightly overcooked one. We get off the bus, the English girl Laria, looking pale. She had been sick again on the winding roads down. This time into a bag with a small hole in it. I use my maps.me app and find our hostel Breeze of Pai. Laria follows and the wonderful app lands her the last room moments before other travellers turn up. For a fiver a night, a great find tucked down a side street. Hot showers, aircon, towels and toilet paper, proper 5 star backpacking.
After a beer, we go looking for food, both girls exhausted. Pai still offers great street food and I am looking forward to that. We find a little local place. For 30 bhat, I get a quality green curry. On the main street this was 280 bhat. Mo goes for a nap and I go exploring. Curious to find any remnants of old Pai. I find a street that comes close after passing many 7-11 shops on route. It's certainly still worth a visit, the street vendors appearing to have some tasty food. Markets and little hippy shops with trinkets. Lots of bars and cafes. Narrow roads full to the brim with mopeds is slightly unfortunate. I look forward to exploring further. There is even a purple dog alive and well. Footnote : must get a photo of the dog.
We sit chatting at the hostel later than expected. Not as much street food around, but try a chicken skewer with sweet chili on it. Fires my appetite, but as it is close to 10pm, food venues are shutting up shop. We find a small place tucked away. The owners hyperactive daughter finding much amusement in us. I settle for roast pork and rice. Small and simple. We get some beers and head back to the hostel and will try sunrise bar tomorrow.
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