We did all our paperwork on the Sudanese side of the border, it was a lot easier getting out than in and crossed into Ethiopia. The border officials in the border town of Gallabat were all Manchester United fans so a quick chat about football usually eases the formalities and we were soon on our way. The scenary was absolutely breathtaking we couldn't believe what a beautiful country Ethiopia is. There are rolling hills all green with vegitation a feast to our eyes after months in desert like conditions. The road, however, was a different story it took us 8 hours to cover 112 miles on rutted gravel roads being passed by lots of waggons and buses each throwing up clouds of dust..our clean truck was soon back to square one again.

Wherever you look in Ethiopia people are walking along the roads or in the fields thronging in the villages. Life is very, very basic here and people still literally live in mud and staw huts. Wherever you stop a small crowd forms as people literally stop and stare or come up to the windows and peer in at you. Although a hard drive it was an amazing day taking in all the new sights. Out in the country where people's livelihood depends on their cattle it is not suprising to see the children of the family looking after the herds of cows, sheep and goats. Children are expected to look after the family's livestock from the age of 4 years old and it is heartbreaking seeing these tiny little scraps stood on the side of the road dressed in rags with no shoes waving as you drive by. Sometimes it is hard to see them as they are so black and covered in dust and dirt they just blend into the roadside. A lot of them have their heads shaved to keep lice at bay but they always have a tuft on top which is 'so God can lift them to heaven'.

We arrived in Gonder and tired and dirty and as soon as we stopped a small crowd formed looking in the windows. One guy knocked and said he could help us with what we were looking for and we said no. He was persistent and told us he could take us to the campsite. Peter got angry and told him to go, he said he had been driving for 8 hours, was tired and didn't need any help and went of with a flea in his ear. We checked out the usual camping places and one place wanted US$17 to camp in the car park with no showers or toilets which was way too expensive. In the end we booked into small new hotel which was only US$25 for a room.

Gonder is a small town with a central Piazza around which are many bars and small cafes. The only transportation is again really taxis or donkeys or the local bus. We went into town at night and had our first beers after several weeks, not being able to have alcohol in Sudan. We had 4 beers (halves) and it cost 8 Birr which is about 60p. There were 7 staff in the bar, 2 waitresses, 2 washer upers, one guy pulling pints and one cashier. with only about 10 customers. In England one person would have run the bar easily. As we strolled around town we bumped into the guy who Peter had shouted at. He came over, apologised and said it was his fault. He should have realised Peter was tired and not bothered us!!

We came out of the hotel next day and two lads were washing the truck and camper. We hadn't asked them to but they said they 'wanted to make us happy'. It was my 50th birthday today but as Ethiopia runs on a different calender system than us, they use the Coptic Calendar and we use the Gregorian Calendar which means they are 7 1/2 years behind us, today I was only 43!!!

Gonder has a Royal Enclosure which is pretty impressive. Hiding behind high stone walls there is a 70,000 sq meter site housing regal castles and palaces and was declared a World Heritage site in 1979. We spent an hour or so wandering around, exploring the castles and sitting in the shade and then went to sample some Ethiopian fayre for lunch. Injera is the staple dish and it is said you will never forget your first injera experience which is true and indeed you will never wish to repeat it either!! It is the basis of almost every meal and is spread out like a huge thin pancake the size of a round tray. It looks like a cross between an old grey flannel and cold tripe. On top of this was heaped Kitfo which is a big treat for oridany Ethiopians. the leanest meat is reserved for this dish, minced and warmed in a pan and served on top of the flannel. It is not cooked but just warmed. We had a little bowl of spices which I liberally sprinkled on top and as you pulled a piece of injera off and rolled it together with some meat with your fingers and put it in your mouth it took great willpower not to heave!! I think we managed about 4 bits each and then I just knew I couldn't put anymore in my mouth or I would have thrown the lot up again. We thanked them profusely and told them we were full although they did laugh knowing that it didn't suit our stomachs.

That evening we stayed in the hotel for my birthday meal and again enjoyed beers and this time red wine although it does come in a beer bottle complete with bottle top and tastes something like vinegar! We ordered several things off the menu but in the end reallly just had to settle for what they had which was tomato soup and spagetti bolognaise. We chatted with a couple of guys at the next table and in the end we paid their drinks bill (5 beers) as well as our meal and drinks and the whole lot only came to under £6!!

When we walked passed reception on the way back to the room one of the young guys who worked there came over and wished me a Happy Birthday and he had bought me 4 candles as a present. He came to the room with us and lit the candles and stood them in an ashtray!!

As we ate our final breakfast in the hotel restaurant overlooking a small Shell station a fight broke out amongst the guys working there and it took several minutes and a lot of flying fists before order was restored. We said our goodbyes to the friendly helpful staff at the Landmark International Hotel and set off on the road once more.