I went straight to Coyhaique from Puerto Chacabuco cos there's nothing there apparently. One of the guys with MILLIONS of luggage from the ferry was going to Coyhaique too and so when the bus chucked us all out, I asked if he needed help as his luggage was a 2 man job! Yes thanks, just across here he said. 20 minutes and 2 aching shoulders later I almost dropped all his plants on the ground with relief!

It's a gorgeous wee town. Similar to Puerto Varas. But why oh why do people not know how to clean a toilet in the whole of South America??? I'm so traumatised every time I go. People just don't seem to care. In the nicest of restaurants, the toilets are DISGUSTING!! Again, as with the dead dog I will spare you the details.

2 people sang to me today: my friend on the ferry. Turns out she sings for her church choir and she happily started singing to me when I asked her to. Such a beautiful sweet (quiet - something I've never had the ability to do as some of you may know) voice. She was singing about The Lord and with the perfect scenery and us cuddled up together under her blankets in the freezing cold with nobody else around, there was something very emotional about it all. The owner of my next hostel Pete also sang to me. It turns out he's a music teacher and is in a band. His guitar was sitting right there and when I showed interest, he too sang to me! All Spanish finger picking stuff. Amazing! Not quite so emotional this time though!