Saturday Sept 11 - Lebaran day #2

Today I visited 3 more homes with Herizal's family, including that of the president of IAIN ( Rector, to be precise ) and Annie, the woman who spent 10 years working in California, as well as a former neighbor/friend of Herizal's mom.The first two were both impressive - large, 2-story, very high ceilings, well-furnished to say the least.At the Rector's we were the only guests at the time of our visit, quite a contrast to yesterday's rooms full of family and friends - still casual but seemed like more of an 'obligatory' visit.The next two stops made up for it and included lots of conversation in English.At the third home I got into a 'real' conversation with a guy who turned out to be an English teacher himself, about growing up in New Orleans, teaching geography, and other things.And several people said I should consider myself part of the family while I'm here; I said I'd be glad to.If anything, even better food today at all three homes, with really good and hot-off-the-stove pempek at each place, and I had the appetite to do more than politely 'sample' too.

After no smokers yesterday, there were two today, though only briefly.Herizal says some guys only smoke in the evenings.Before coming I'd expected to see most men smoking almost constantly - especially clove cigarettes ( which I've only even smelled once since coming here ).And since that one morning I took a walk, the air has been 'funk'-free, in opposition to Lonely Planet's unflattering characterization of the city. Both surprises have been pleasant, needless to say.

Most shops we passed today were still closed.Still, the traffic was the worst I've seen since arriving, in places at least.We passed part of the time singing kids' songs in English ( they learned them in Australia ) such as 'You Are My Sunshine' and "Are You Sleeping'; YaYa( the baby ) was fascinated.I was a bit cooler today, having had the good sense to wear my one light short-sleeved shirt.

Otherwise, no plans for tomorrow. On both Monday and Tuesday Herizal will pick me up to go one place or another ( e.g. back to Immigration ).

Sunday Sept 12

Last night it occurred to me that I have not seen a single Western face since coming here ten days ago - first time I've ever gone anywhere near that long in my entire life.Yesterday in the lobby I talked with a Chinese guy who works for an LNG company associated with BP somehow, and he said there are a few Americans in the area, but all guys who live at the rigs where they work.

At the same time I've had far more opportunities than I expected for serious conversation with locals who speak a fair bit of English.I guess last year's Fulbright ETA, Katie, was just 'moving in the wrong circles' and thus ended up with the impression that virtually no one in Palembang knows English.But that doesn't lessen my motivation to work hard at studying Indonesian even if I never reach the point of being able to follow the rapid-fire speaking I hear constantly ( which is often in Palembangian rather than Indonesian anyway ).And when I visit the pesantrens later, I don't expect the boys will understand English but at the same time I don't want every single thing I say to need translation.

It's also the first time I've ever gone so long without spending any money at all, except on those two weeks-long Grand Canyon float trips long ago. I haven't spent a single rupiah since I got here as there's been no need to and really no opportunity to.Even once I've moved into my own place I doubt I'll buy much except groceries and cell phone 'pulsa' except when I go off and travel somewhere.But I do want to get some batik shirts - they look to be a stylish and more comfortable alternative to the stodgy standard dress shirts I brought since they're both lighter and do not need to be 'tucked in'.Also I very much want to find and buy some batik artwork, a lot of it in fact, in various styles.

I don't expect I'll be using my camera either except when I travel.Maybe when I visit local traditional markets, several of which Herizal has pointed out to me as we passed.Anyway, I know that I need to stop thinking in terms of conventional 'pretty pictures' and try to develop the eye of a documentary photographer.

As I left breakfast today lots of people were coming in, both Malay and Chinese, a 'first' since I've been here.Since Ramadan ended the hotel's breakfast buffet has gotten a bit more varied ( small pancakes, various garnishes for the rice/noodle dishes ) and is served in larger, 'classier' trays.I may start going down a bit later so I can do a bit of discreet people-watching.It's interesting just to notice how people dress, interact, etc.

A while later a crowd of over 100 showed up and spread out all around the pool - a high school reunion, it turned out. As I passed, one guy latched onto me and took me over to chat and meet people ( though no one else spoke any English ). There was a small band and sound system, and one person after another stepped up to the mike to sing old favorites, which included "Yesterday" and "Let It Be Me" ( both barely recognizable, but at least they tried ). Actually one woman, a high school principal I was told, sang very well - in Indonesian - and people listened appreciatively, even took photos - and then danced, as couples even. LOTS of smokers in this crowd, among the men mostly but not entirely. Every table had a big bowl of pint-sized peanuts ( kacang ) in the shell, supposedly grown locally. Some big boxes of presents were handed out, I couldn't tell on what basis since only a few people got them. Everyone had custom-made turquose T-shirts and wore either a bright red scarf or red baseball cap. Except for people speaking/singing in Indonesian it was remarkably comparable to a US school reunion. I guess there's a universal school reunion subculture. Eventually I excused myself - it was too hot and the smoke was starting to get to me, even outside.