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12th June-
Today was good to get an early start as we are visiting Gallipoli. Had a quick breakfast of vegemite on toast just to get into the sprit of the day.
Caught the ferry from canakkale across the daradanelle straight. Talked with some other kiwis that are also traveling around and visiting Gallipoli today.
Once off the ferry we arrived a museum and park entry site. Made a stop there to look at a map of the pensunila. It was a great way to start the morning and see how the area is laid out and where different forces were landing and aiming to conquer. Got on the bus and drove into the national park. The first stop was in ANZAC cove at the base of the sphinx rock formation. Had a few moments there, this is the site of the dawn services. Then walked down behind the monument into the water and the beach. It was a moving and incredible feeling to walk in the same water and then along the beach were hundreds of ANZACs landed. Standing in the water and looking up at the cliff face that lay ahead the task of trying to attack such a place must have been overwhelming for the young men. Today is a beautiful calm sunny day the cove is still, the sun is shining and butterflies are in the air... Thinking back to the loss of life and pain suffered in this area seems so far removed from the natural wonder that presents itself at present. With the sand from cove between my toes the next stop was Ari Burnu cemerty. This was a small site but walking around and reading some of ages and messages inscribed on the stones was so moving, it really made you think how brave these young men were... the generation that was lost fighting so far from home. Walked again down into the water and was surprised a little, how emotion it felt. Having no strong family connection with the area I wasn't sure what to expects in terms of an emotional connection with this place but standing in the ocean with the sand and rocks beneath.... it really is something elsa. It is hard to describe accurately with words but was very moving.
We stopped off at the monument to a Turkish general that went to the aid of an English officer that was wounded and screaming loudly in pain. This is just one story of hundreds where fighting between the two sides stopped and they showed such human compassion towards it others. It must have been hard mentally to then go into the trenches and start fighting against each other again.
Drove a short distance to Lone Pine. This was large site with many australian graves and roll of honor. The tree is said to be original with bullet holes in the bark. I am not sure how long a tree lives for and with bark regeneration I thought that it would have a new outer layer, but it is a nice thought and sentiment. Again walking around seeing young ages and message inscribed into the stone (Far away from home and loved ones in a heroes grave he lies... Or ... greater love hath no man) very moving sentiments
Lone pine is high up on a ridge and you look down towards the water and see the vertical distances and difficult terrain that had to be covered. It was going to be hard fighting to gain very short sections of land. the view from the top on a fine day like today is hundreds of meters. You can see clearly all the way down to beach.
We drove past the remains of some of the trenches. They were maybe two feet deep only still. But you can see how close the two opposing sides were.
We then looked at one of the Turkish monument to there fallen. The number of men killed on the Turkish side is higher but it can difficult to know exact numbers due to many young boys unregistered fighting.
We then stopped briefly to walk along some of the original trenches. They have only been partly restored and are maybe 3 feet deep. It was incredible to walk along these and explore the same routes that the young soldiers dug during battle. There was still barred wire and support logs. Not sure if these are original or replacements.
We then reached to the new Zealand monument . This is on the top of one of the taller hills in the area with a view from the Aegean sea where the ANZAC forces landed down towards the Dardanelles. You could clearly see for over a kilometer from the top of this area. They have the roll of honor and graves on the side facing the Dardanelles as this was there aim. In this area there were also some reconstructed trenches that you can walk around in. They are only 3 feet tall maybe. The original trenches are up too 2 meters deep but they don't want to dig down into the soil as what is buried below maybe disturbed.
It was then time to head back to Istanbul. On the bus for an hour or so before a lunch stop with a couple of zoo animal in a cage on the side. Then it was time for the final drive to the bus to Istanbul. Feels kinda weird to be the last ride on the bus after spending so much time over the past 10 days on the one bus with the same people. Have made some great friends and had good conversation while watching turkey roll by.
We arrived back in Istanbul after 8pm and then just put the bags in the room and headed out for a final dinner. We ate on the top of an average restaurant but it has great views out over the Aya sophia. We then headed out for a final drink. A small group went back to the hotel first just to book our airport shuttles for tomorrow. Then walked back down to the lounge. We sat around on the floor with giant cushions and shared some free water pipes and drink. Was funny that the place was called the top deck cafe... Didn't realize that till after we had sat down and ordered a drink. In honor of our final night ordered a drink called a top deck surprise. Was like a fruit drink but it came with a sparkler which was fun. We sat around talking about the amazing adventures we had shared together and was a little exciting when I could blow the smoke out through my nose!
Headed back to the hotel around midnight. It was a very handsome night.
- comments
Graeme so well written, and quite moving, thankyou Sarah. maybe a writer is your calling