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24th June-
At the hotel breakfast this morning I meet two other single travelers that plan on catching the first bus up to Meteora so we can travel together for the day. Headed out from the hotel at 830 and it is already a hot day. Caught the bus from the main KTEA bus station up to Varlaam. This monastery is reached by climbing up nearly 200 stairs. Once inside the gates you walk into this beautiful courtyard that provides incredible views over the surrounding area. There is also a 16th church with frescoes that are magnificent. Some restorations have taken place I think as sections are looking perfect and other look more worn.
We then walked maybe a 1km up the road to Megalo Meteora. It is the largest and grandest of the monasteries built in the 14th century and sitting more than 1361 feet above the valley it is an incredible feet of construction. The site is reached by climbing 400 stairs but they still have the traditional basket and pulley system that was used for hauling goods and the occasional monk up to the top. We were able to walk around and look at the cellar which was home to hundreds of vases and two enormous wine wind barrels. These would have many thousands of liters of wine I think. There was also a museum that contained military items explaining how the area was a site of much resistance against the nazi forces in world war 2. The icon museum contain many detailed pieces of work. Also walked through the relfectorany which is like a dining room located next to the kitchen, with a large cauldron and wood fired oven. The room was blackened due to the smoke from cooking. There was a well in the corner of the kitchen which would have been convenient. It is a large compound but much of the area isn't open to the public.
We then walked along the road for a few kilometer to Roussanou. This small nunnery is also know as Ayia barbara and is set on the lowest rock in meteora as the early monks didn't want women at there height. The women here have created beautiful gardens on the sides of the cliffs around them. The walk to the nunnery is down a beautiful little path through the trees. It was nice to have some shade as walking along the road is hot. The buildings have been restored at the start of the 20th century after laying abandoned for many years.
Then had to walk back up the path too the main road. Took advantage of the shade though while it lasted. Once back on the road we continued on the walk to the nunnery of agios Stefanos. It was a long and hot walk But the views were amazing... It is hard to describe and even capture with the camera the magic of this place. It feels like a place were you could imagine the ancient greek gods would spend there time and yet at the same time there is something almost futuristic about what you are looking at... It is hypothesized that these formation were created by a prehistoric river or the gods were angry and throw the rocks at earth as a sign of rage... Either is possible I guess but it doesn't matter how they came about, there beauty and mystery is felt.
We reached the nunnery right on 130 which was the time it closed for a 2 hour lunch break. Enjoyed a break in the shade before deciding that it would be a better use of time to walk back to Ayia Triada. We hAd planed to visit it last as there is a path from it back to kalambaka. We climbed down a rocky ramp then through a tunnel and back up nearly 200 stairs to reach this most spectacularly located monastery on a isolated rock pinnacle. It was used during the filming of the James bond: for your eyes only in 1981 ( think I might try and hire the movie at some stage to see how it looks). Built in 15th century it is smaller then some of other monastery but the views over the surrounding area are unpassable. We took the chance to rest in the cold stone interior as it was too early to go back to the nunnery yet. I layed down on this hard uneven wooden seat and feel asleep almost instantly. Was worn out from all the walking and climbing in the sun. After the nice rest was time to walk back. The sun had lost some of it's intensity from earlier in the day making the feel better. The nunnery was established at the start of the 13th century and is still home to a large congestion of sisters, that all must have green thumbs as the gardens are full of flowers arranged in perfect order and colour complements. There was an icon museum that along with the paintings and carvings displayed a collection of delicately embroidered cloth, stoles and cloaks. Many of the nuns were working around the site and also entertaining the visitors. Was nice to see them interacting so freely with the public.
It was now time to start the walk back. It was mostly all down hill. Which at times didn't necessarily make it easy as the monopati ( old secret monk trail) down too kalambaka was slippery and the smooth rocks underfoot provided little stability. It was fanatic though to walk down through the valley. It provided different views of the area and prospective.
Once back in time it was time to get something to drink as am feeling vey dehydrated. But is it is a Sunday afternoon so almost everything was closed. Was very grateful to find a mini market finally and gulped down a water and poweraid in no time.
Rest at hotel before heading out to for dinner with my new friends. Walked into a local tavern and enjoyed some delicious roasted halomina cheese. Was spitting rain but walked back to hotel enjoying the cool change and reflecting on the day we had had in the heavenly rocks.
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