Day 13: Lares Trek

After a cold and occasionally breathless night(partly the altitude/partly the feeling of restriction of wearing too many layers) our cheery guide (2nd in command to Roddy) Walter called us at 6am. Not only did he wake us but he handed us a cup of hot coca tea, to help us on our way. A bowl of hot water (aka "Jacuzzi service") was left outside our tent too to freshen up for the day.

A hot breakfast of porridge and fried bread (special fried sweet potato for the awkward coeliacs!) was served to us and at 7am we departed the camp. We hadn't gone a few metres when we stopped to greet and gift some of the Andean kids. All crossing The Valley on their way to school, they would run across the wild landscape to greet us. They were dressed in their beautiful, bright embroidered clothes and leather sandals - sandals for a rocky, mountainous terrain, sandals for freezing conditions. Even their youthful skin showed the signs of a harsh climate. We met dozens of children that morning and offloaded an array of goodies. Such beautiful kids and they seemed appreciative of the offerings too.

Before things got too heavy on the hiking front, Roddy brought us to a simple thatched roof stone cottage, with two elderly locals (the last Incas apparently) basking in the sun outside. We were invited inside this one room home (could be an old Irish cottage in Connemara!) and we learned about the way of life, customs and traditions of the Andean people. Once again we gifted them with goodies including pasta, coca leaves and biscuits.

Thereafter, things started to heat up: the weather first and then the intensity of the hike. Roddy led us up the steep grassy hillside, following no particular path. Breathing got deeper and the air got thinner the higher we climbed. We had started at 3,800m and were going to reach 4,800m.

The group started to spread as people struggled with the altitude and Roddy's pace. At one point, heavy day bags were taken from some of the weary, breathless hikers and given to the porters. With the ease and agility of a mountain goat, the porter carried the bundle of bags, no less in a blanket tied together and thrown over his back, up the hillside.

The group was reshuffled to push those better adjusted to the steep incline to the front to allow Roddy and the team support the rest from behind. At one point, one of the girls was so sick that a short horse ride helped her a portion of the way!

It was challenging, but as we trekked, the scenery kept changing and one breathtaking view followed the other. At one point, particularly rocky and tiring, high in the mountains, a deep, wide and stunningly beautiful lagoon appeared, as if out of nowhere. It was awesome in the truest sense of the word.

Thereafter, it was a short but difficult climb to the top. The final stretch, a former glacial mountain, was devoid of greenery. A seemingly barren, rocky landscape dotted with mirror like lagoons made up the final stretch to the summit. First of my group to the top, I couldn't help give a shout (much, I'm sure, to the irritation of everyone else... sorry guys!)! The view at the peak, of where we'd come from and the journey we were about to make, was spellbinding. Gradually, tired and breathing hard, one by one, we all made it to the top. From here, we huddled together in a group, and, following a ritual offering of coca leaves to the mountains; Roddy offered us each a shot of rum which we swallowed following a short speech made by each. It was a nice moment, and a lovely way to mark our achievement.

The route down was arguably as beautiful, if not more so. While others raced down, I was in less of a hurry, conscious of my clicky knees and notably knackered from the ascent. Regardless, we all reached lunch camp and relished the hot food served to us.

Energised from lunch, we continued down the mountain, with rivers and cliff faces, valleys and rich vegetation, for a few more hours until reaching camp for the night. I don't have the words to describe the beauty that we witnessed on that journey, but it will stay with me forever.

Once again, our tents were erected, waiting for us, and the cooks were busy preparing dinner. Feeling a lot less than fresh, I decided to bathe my feet in the river, the ice cold water a tonic for my hot, aching feet.

Jacuzzi service(large bowl of hot water) was provided for each of us and, prioritising cleanliness over dignity (a far overrated quality for a trip like this) freshened up outside the tent (it was that or baby wipes!).

As with the night before, the temperature dropped rapidly and extremely. After dinner, and a brief presentation by Roddy of the Southern Cross in the starry night sky, we layered up once more and settled in for another cold and uncomfortable night.

Accommodation: 2 man tent
Weather: cold in the morning; hot during day; below freezing at night.
Distance covered: 16km; 1,000m climbed.